In Brief
Known to some Lao
as the 'garden village' of Laos, Attapeu is a gem of a town, with a lush tropical
setting.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Tawiwan, near the
post office, with creaky-floored rooms and a popular restaurant.
Souksomphone, opposite
the bank. Large clean rooms with equally large clean beds.
Food and
drink
Apart from the restaurant
at the Tawiwan, you could try the Boualipham which serves some tasty rice dishes.
There are also a few foe places.
Email/Internet
None.
Telephone
Not sure.
Banks/Moneychangers
There's a branch of Phak Tai bank, although the exchange rate is substantially
lower than in Pakse.
What to see
You can easily hire boats for little trips around the area.
What to buy
Nothing really, although you might come across a few Cambodian or Vietnamese
goods for sale.
Fun Fun Fun
Just relaxing and drinking Vietnamese beers...
Transport around town
None necessary as it's such a tiny place.
Bus timetables
Pakse - 3 Dep a day - 4 to 7 hours
Pakxong - 2 Dep a day - 2 hours
Plane timetables
Nearest airport is Pakse, where you can fly to Savannakhet and Vientiane.
Warnings
There are extremely high levels of malaria in this province and you should take
suitable precautions.
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
The plateau is a beautiful
area, famous for its coffee. There is no set route or destinations as such but
this is a great area to travel in if you make the effort.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Tadlo resort at the
Taat Lo waterfall overlooks a beautiful setting. Thatch bungalows range in spec
from simple with shared cold water shower up to well appointed ones with fan
and hot water. There is a very atmospheric restaurant and terrace for sitting.
Saise GH is only a short distance away and is much cheaper - although is not anywhere near as nice.
The Saise also run a much nicer GH, opposite the Tadlo Resort restaurant, called Heun Mittaphab Lao Thai. This place is a large green house with 6 rooms of a much better standard.
Food
and drink
Everyone eats
at the resort's restaurant, which has French, Lao and Thai food. You should
take the chance to sample the different coffees from around the plateau.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
N/A
Banks/Moneychangers
N/A
What to see
Taat Lo waterfall is a few km west of Paksong, is wide if not massively tall
and is good for swimming.
Taat fan waterfall drops 120m over two separate falls. The best view is from
a distance - at KM 38 on Route 16 take the turn off North. Where the road ends
take a track to the edge of the gorge. Don't fall off.
There are several Katu and Alak villages on the road between Pakse and Paksong,
and others within walking distance of the resort.
You can also arrange elephant rides in the area which can be really good run,
if a little uncomfy.
What to buy
Coffee.
Fun Fun Fun
It's pretty quiet here and there's a pleasant lack of discotheques.
Transport around town
The only transport around the plateaux is on the few buses and trucks which
ply Route 16.
Bus timetables
Buses from saravane to:
Pakse - 4 deps - 3 hours 30 minutes
Taoy - 1 dep - 5 hours
Toumlan - 1 dep - 2 hours
Sekong - 2 deps - 4 hours
Plane timetables
There are no landing strips on the plateau.
Warnings
Be careful in the waterfalls since dams upstream release extra water at certain
times of day --find out before going swimming.
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
This is the only legal
border crossing for people travelling between Laos and China or vice versa.
The border (on the Lao side) is open from 8am-12pm and 2pm -4pm.
Crossing either way you will need a visa in advance.
Hotels
and guesthouses
There are a
few basic, grubby guesthouses here. If you want something better, sleep on the
Chinese side if you can.
Food
and drink
There are also
several average restaurants.
Email/Internet
No way!
Telephone
Don't think so.
Banks/Moneychangers
Plenty of money changers but no banks.
What to see
The lines of pick ups being smuggled into China. They all come from Thailand
and it is hard to believe that contraband can be this blatant.
What to buy
One of the cars perhaps?
Fun Fun Fun
Drinking beer with truckers
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Luang Namtha - 4 deps daily - 2 to 3 hours.
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
N/A
In
Brief
A low-key Mekong town,
most people come here only to visit the pre-Angkor ruins of Wat Phu. However,
if Southern Laos isn't restful enough anyway, Champasak would make an excellent
'rest stop' between Si Phan Don and Pakse.
Hotels and
guesthouses
All accomodation is
near the Fountain circle, about 3km from Ban Phabin (K2000 by tuk-tuk)
Sala Wat Phou, near the fountain circle. This is Champasak's finest lodgings, with AC rooms starting at a pricy $17 or $25 with hot water. Fan rooms are a bit cheaper but still overpriced.
Kham Phouy GH, Large clean rooms B50 for singles or B75 for doubles or triples. A quad room is available for B100. Bungalows are quite cute, also for B100.
Mr. Sing GH, on the main road south of the fountain. Simple rooms B50 with good food in the restaurant.
Suchittra GH, near the river. Five bed dorm for an astoundingly low B25, but the other rooms are quite expensive - B125 for no shower. Great veranda.
Dok Champa GH, Rooms in funky bungalows B75, good restaurant, French spoken
Food and
drink
Dok Champa GH Restaurant
is pretty good.
Around the fountain are several inexpensive places which can cook you some basic Lao food.
Email/Internet
None
Telephone
You can telephone from the post office, which is open until 9pm daily.
Banks/Moneychangers
A small wooden building houses a bank which can only exchange cash.
What to see
Wat Phu lies 8km out of town, an easy distance to cycle, taking less than an
hour even at Lao cycling speeds. Opening hours are from 8:30 to 16:30 but in
reality are longer than this at both ends of the day.
Whilst obviously this place is not Angkor Wat, it is still worth visiting. The ruins are quite far gone in places, but there is still plenty of glorious carving and sculpture in evidence. The setting is absolutely stunning and Wat Phu is the highlight of any trip to southern Laos. It is a pleasure to see the majestic, ancient Khmer stones in an unspoilt environment - the same can't be said of sites in Thailand.
If you are around in early
February, the Wat Phu festival is worth visiting - you can expect elephant races,
bullfighting, cock fighting, music, dancing, and of course......drinking. It
can be difficult to secure accommodation in Champasak during this time.
You could also visit the island Don Daeng, in the Mekong. There is a great sandy
beach here.
What to buy
Some tacky souvenirs of Wat Phu perhaps (if you can find them...)
Fun Fun Fun
There's not much going on in Champasak itself, but you can always use your imagination.
Transport around town
Bicycles can be hired at all the guesthouses for K5000 per day.
Sala Wat Phou hires a 4WD pickup for trips around the area (sample price $15
to the Wat)
Most people hire tuk-tuks to the ruins.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Pakse - K5000
- Dep 07:00
A better option to Pakse
is to take one from Ban Muang - K3000 - dep. Between 06:00 and 07:00
Boat
timetables
Boats leave
for Pakse between 8 and 11 am (K5000, 2 hours).
To Don Khong (Si Phan Don), the boat from Pakse should reach Ban Phabin at around 9am. It should take around 8 hours and cost K15000.
Warnings
None specifically
Medical Services
N/A
In
Brief
These two islands
in the Mekong are extremely beautiful and are one of the major highlights of
a trip to Southern Laos. Despite being river rather than coastal islands, they
still feel like true 'tropical islands' with all the laid-back cliches and palm
trees that you could wish for. Some people stay here for weeks in much the same
way that the Thai islands attract 'long termers'.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Don Khon
Pon's River Resort. Bungalows B50 in a slightly overcrowded garden.
Somphamit GH, average rooms in nice house, with shared facilities, B50
Silipheds GH, simple rooms in a shaky house for B40. Outdoor shower.
Bane Khone GH, B50 for simple rooms and an outdoor shower.
Mr. Bounh's GH, Pleasant bungalows B50, B75 with private bath facilities.
Auberge Sala Done Khone. This is the island's luxury accommodation, an atmospheric colonial house set in lush gardens - but it also has budget choices. Dorm beds are $3, doubles with shower are $10 and individual bungalows are $16 single/$22 double. You can book in advance by telephoning their office in Pakse on 212725.
Pakha GH, near the school, average rooms B50 with outside shower.
Souksun GH, next to the pier. Dorm beds for B25, Bungalows B60 (or B75 if you want proper beds). Nicer bungalows for B90. Nice place with great sunset view although it's in quite a busy location.
No name GH, close to the above, rooms in bungalow B100 but noisy.
Don Det
Mr. Bouaphanh GH, Clean rooms B50 in a quiet street - although you're not next to the river - the choice is yours.
Cafe Don Det, next to Mr Bouaphanh's place. Basic bungalows B50 or B60 for those facing the river. By the time you arrive there may be a meditation courses, a restaurant, day trips and so on.
No name GH, close to the above. Standard rooms B50. Not great.
Mr. Tho's Bungalow, towards the Don Khon side of the island. Bungalows right by the river B50 with a great atmosphere. It's a 30 minute walk to Don Khon from here.
Hangdet Bungalow, 40 minutes from Don Det pier, 10 minutes from Don Khon bridge. Rooms in bungalow B25 per bed (actually per mattress). Doubles with private bath B100, singles B75. Great location and intimate GH.
Food and drink
Don Khon
There are plenty of restaurants near the bridge. Prepare yourself for plenty of fish…
Don Det
There are fewer here but most GH's can rustle up some food.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
None - which might explain the lack of the above.
Banks/Moneychangers
None, so bring some cash.
What to see
Khon Phapheng Falls.
These are the biggest falls in Asia, but only in terms of the area they cover:
there are no huge vertical drops, rather just an impressive low-level surge
of water which covers the whole river. The falls are 12 km from Ban Nakasong,
which you must reach by boat - K15000 per boat from Don Khon (20 minutes) or
K7000 from Don Det (5 minutes). Once at Ban Nakasong, find a tuk tuk, although
finding one for less than K10000 per person can be tough since there is a monopoly
situation here...
What to see
on Don Khon
Dolphin Spotting -
you could try to see the very rare Irrawaddy dolphin, but you will need some
luck. Boats holding up to 3 people are available to hire for an hour for about
35,000 kip - but good bargaining might be able to reduce this.
Somphamit Falls - these are equally worth seeing and there are some nice spots for swimming in sheltered 'whirlpools' - but be careful.
Alternative Islands It surely can't be long until there are other guesthouses on other islands.
What to buy
Some fish perhaps?
Fun Fun Fun
Learning to gut fish perhaps?
Transport around town
Bikes are available for K8000 per day, but to be honest it's nicer to walk around.
Bus Schedules
Buses depart from
Ban Nakasong, opp. Don Det
To Champasak and Pakse -
Dep 06:00 and 09:00 - 3 hours
Plane timetables
Nil point
Warnings
Exercise caution when swimming, particularly near the falls, since currents
can be unpredictable.
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
This is the standard entry point into Northern Laos, a border town on the Mekong
opposite Chiang Khong, Thailand.
Hotels and
guesthouses
In the town centre
Maniratin Hotel, near the Thai pier and immigration office. Rooms B150 with
HW shower. Slightly musty rooms but this place is convenient and has a certain
charm. The balconies are a welcome addition.
Turning right (ie south) on the main road
Keochampa Hotel, basic rooms with cold shower B150 or B200 with hot water.
Hueixay Guesthouse, good if plain rooms with hot water B150.
Thaveesinh Guesthouse, singles are slightly cheaper here - they go for B100,
and doubles for B150, but unless everywhere else is full you should avoid this
place since it is not very clean.
Turning left (ie north) on the main road
Thaveesinh Hotel, Singles or Doubles are B150 or B200 with hot water. This place
is a big improvement on the guesthouse of the same name.
Chanthone Guesthouse single or double with shared HW showers for B100.
Savanh Bokeo Guesthouse same as above.
Outside town in the direction of the slow boat pier
No name Guesthouse, no name at the time of research anyway but maybe it has
one by now. Email info@laopdr.com to let us know! Singles and doubles for B100
with shared HW.
Phet Da Kham Guesthouse, between the town centre and the slow boat pier, about
10 minutes walk from either. All rooms are B100 with shared hot water shower.
Arimid (or Amirad) Guesthouse, a bit further out. Bungalows with HW showers.
Doubles, with a big bed, are B200, Twins with 2 beds are B250, triples are B300.
This is easily the nicest place in town as long as you don't mind the small
walk.
Food and
drink
The restaurant just after the Manilat Hotel is good value and serves up some
good grub.
Email/Internet
Not yet - use it before you cross into Laos if you're an addict!
Telephone
You may be able to arrange calls from your guesthouse.
Banks/Moneychangers
You can use
Baht or Dollars in Laos but it is easier to pay in Kip - change your Baht or
dollars as you go along. You can change your money easily (and normally for
the correct exchange rate) by buying something and getting the change in Kip.
There is also a bank desk (8.00 to 15.00 daily) next to the immigration office
where you can change US$ Travelers Cheques into Kip.
What to see
A trip to the gem mine can be very interesting. The name of this province, Bokeo,
actually means 'gem mine' and the area is one of the richest in the world in
terms of their concentration. The most famous (and now infamous) mine is not
far from Huay Xai, and whilst you can't get in, you can see plenty of amateur
prospectors nearby looking for sapphires which have risen to the surface.
In town, the Wat on the hill offers an excellent view across to Thailand, although
unfortunately women are not allowed entry.
You can join an organised trek to the surrounding villages and see minority
making bamboo paper, noodles or whisky (try Phoudoi Travel, opposite the immigration
office - they organise 1 day tours for B200).
What to buy
Beer Lao - drinking in Laos is so much cheaper than across the border, and so
you can really afford to get drunk…..
Fun Fun Fun
See the 'what to buy' section above
Transport around town
Not a big place, but if you're really lazy you can find a tuk-tuk..
Crossing the border
Most people come to Huay Xai to cross the border at the start of their travels
in Laos or to cross into Thailand at the end of them. It is perfectly possible
to enter Laos here and get a boat almost straight away, although although you
might prefer to spend a night here first to acclimatise to rustic Laos after
the easy-travellin' consumer heaven of Thailand.
The border is open daily from 8.00 to 17:30. The 2 minute ferry ride costs B20.
Note that you CANNOT get a visa on the border. The only visa-on-arrival facilities
in Laos are in Vientiane, at the Friendship Bridge and Wattay Airport .
Slow Boat
timetable
Most people take the
slow boat to Pakbeng (B200, 1 day) or Luang Prabang (B400, 2 days, overnight
stay in Pakbeng). The boat or boats (depending on numbers) leave at around 10:30
from the pier about 1km north (20mn walk). There are no boats on a Sunday, although
if there are enough of you to charter one, anything is possible! Whether or
not the trip will be pleasant will depend on the number of boats departing (the
more there are, the less cramped you will be) and whether you will be allowed
to sit on the roof or not. Women are not allowed on the roof at any time and
you should not try and argue about this - you will really offend people since
the Lao believe that you would endager the journey. Near police posts, everyone
will definitely have to get down as it is strictly forbidden to ride on the
roof.
Those going to Luang Prabang will spend one night at Pakbeng, where there is
a sometime scam going on. On occasion, passengers have been asked to buy another
ticket if the boat for the second day is a different one, even though they already
paid for the whole way to Luang Prabang. An alternative approach could be to
buy a ticket to Pakbeng only, see how the trip is going and buy the remaining
section only when you need it: Pakbeng is a quite a nice place once the travellers
leave on the boat.
Speedboat
timetable
It is also possible to take a speed boat to Pakbeng (B440, 3 hours) or Luang
Prabang (B880, 6 hours). Boats leave about 3 km south of the town centre from
8am onwards, or as soon as there are 6 people. Despite the fact that sitting
in the speed boat for more than 3 hours a day is pretty arduous, and that onward
buses from Pakbeng usually depart in the morning only (ie you are forced to
overnight there), you might want to consider this option. It is tremendously
exciting, and if you live to tell the tale, it will make a great story….
If you are heading towards Muang Sing, it is also possible to take a speed boat up to Xieng Kok (B800, 3 hours) and then take a bus (B65, 2 hours, relatively good road). The journey is quite hard but there is no real alternative... Boats leave from 8am onwards when there are at least 4 people, from 500m north of the Slow boat pier - a thirty minute walk from the centre of the village.
Survival
Tips for speed boat passengers
Take ear plugs. Feel no pain from the complete lack of room or uncomfy seat.
And most of all, have no fear of ending your days being splattered at high speed
on the rocky banks of the Mekong or being cut to shreds by another boat….
Plane timetable
Considering the above, taking the plane could be an option (airport 9km south).
Luang Namtha, Mond, Wed & Frid 8:30 $41
Luang Prabang, daily 8:30, $46.
Vientiane, daily 8:30, $88
Road timetable
For adventurous,
hardly types, the road trip to Luang Namtha is apparently not to be missed.
It takes 8 to 11 hours. The road is not recommended during or just after heavy
rain because, if you can even find a vehicle, the trip will take even longer,
and you may have to get out and push it through the mud! But otherwise, if you
can stand 8 hours on a songthaew, it should be fine and the scenery is extremely
beautiful. The songthaews leave at around 7 or 8 (too early to catch if you
come the same day from Thailand) from south of the market on the east of the
main road. The price is around B250. It is also possible to book a shared taxi.
Check out at the travel agency opposite the immigration desk. You could break
the journey in Vieng Phuka (small village with cheap GH) but finding an onward
transport the next day could be problematic if you are not alone.
In Brief
Lak Sao is the Lao
town nearest to the border crossing with Vietnam on Route 8. It's interesting
in itself as a major logging centre. The logging company Phudoi created the
town in the 1980's.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Phudoi is the town's
only hotel. Clean rooms.
Anna_redhed@yahoo.com
Food and drink
The Phudoi
has a restaurant which serves up standard fare.
Thiphavongsay restaurant is better, with good Lao food.
Email/Internet
None.
Telephone
The Phudoi has a phone you can use.
Banks/Moneychangers
There is a new bank which can change dollars and Vietnamese dong into cash.
What to see
You may see some tribal minorities coming down to the market. But it is also
interesting just to see a town in the very centre of the logging industry.
What to buy
How about a few trees?
Until recently, Lao Sao was also a centre of trade in endangered species, and
you could buy whatever obscure animal you wanted as a pet or as dinner. Those
days are gone though since environmentalists kicked up a fuss.
Fun Fun Fun
There is a sort of nightclub attached to the hotel. If you're a single unaccompanied
man, watch out.
Transport around town
The usual tuk tuks.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Thakhek - dep once a day - 5 hours
Vientiane - deps 3 times a day - 8 hours
Plane timetables
None, although there are plenty of helicopters buzzing around hauling the logs
out of the forest.
Warnings
It might be an idea to keep your mouth shut about what you think of all the
logging...
Medical Services
Head back westwards as fast as you can.
In Brief
This is the most common
border crossing between Laos and Vietnam.
Hotels and guesthouses
Friendly GH
is in Daen Sawan (on the Lao side near Lao Bao) has standard rooms but a cheery
owner.
There is also accommodation on the Vietnamese side.
Food and drink
Loung Aloune has Lao food and standards, all quite tasty.
A nameless shop nearby offers baguettes - you can't escape from them....
Email/Internet
None, but how long do you think it will be?
Telephone
None, which might influence your answer to the above question.
Banks/Moneychangers
Young Vietnamese hang out on the road near the crossing and will change currency
for you - portable banking through the window of the bus if you're too lazy
to get out.
What to see
The scenery is great here.
What to buy
If you've come here without a Vietnamese visa, YOU'RE TOO LATE! You can get
your visa in Vientiane at the embassy or at the consulate in Savannakhet for
$50 or $55. However you MUST ensure that your visa is stamped for entry at Lao
Bao otherwise the border guards will refuse you entry.
Fun Fun Fun
Did you really go to a border crossing to have fun?
Transport around town
Motorbike taxis can take you from Daen Sawan to the border crossing 1km away.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Muang Phine - 3 daily - 2 hours 30 minutes
Savannakhet - 2 daily - 7 hours 30 minutes
Xepon - 4 daily - 1 hr and 15 minutes
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
Don't stray off tracks to stretch your legs because of the dangers of UXO.
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
'Namtha (as it is
sometimes known as) is a town growing into more than just a transit point. There
is a superb guesthouse here, one of the best in Laos, and from here there are
many activities you can do, in an area which remains truly unspoilt.
Note that there is only electricity between 18.00 and 21.00.
Hotels and guesthousesThe Boat Landing GH is easily the best ecotourism lodge in Laos. It is located 6km outside LN, about 1km from the airport. Clean, well-made rooms cost between B250 and B300. Check out their website - http://theboatlanding.laopdr.com
Loming GH, good clean rooms with balconies, and western toilets, for B75(1) or B100(2). Set slightly apart from the other guesthouses, which are all on the main road.
Alinya GH, basic dorms (3 beds) B30 and rooms without shower B75. Not great.
Dalasavath, cheap doubles with excellent restaurant.
Hongthaxay Somboun, the best 'standard' hotel in town, offering more comfort than the other places.
Kikham, a dodgy Chinese place.
Many Chan, very friendly GH with excellent service and pretty good food.
Sengchanh, basic and cheap doubles and singles.
Singsavanh, a lovely wooden house as a GH, good service.
Food
and drink
Phonexai, opposite the post office offers Chinese and Lao food and is pretty
good.
Saikhonglongsak opposite telephone office does similar fare. Both are quite
expensive but reflect food prices in the town.
Email/Internet
Possibly by arrangement with The Boat Landing GH. (???)
Telephone
Try the post office.
Banks/Moneychangers
There is a branch of the Lane Xang Bank near the Dalasavath Guesthouse. TC's
can't be changed.
What to see
See http://theboatlanding.laopdr.com
for a complete itinerary of everything you can do in Luang Namtha.
What to buy
Weaving and handicrafts from minority villages can make interesting purchases.
Fun Fun Fun
Karaoke and nightclubs geared up for the many Chinese tourists who come here....
Transport around town
The usual tuk-tuks.
Bus timetables
If there is no direct
bus to Boten or Udomxai by the time you arrive, you could first take a tuk-tuk
to Na Toei (B30, 1.5 hour) and wait there for a connecting bus (usually until
4pm)
Bus Schedules
:
Buses to:
Muang Sing - B40 - Dep 8:00,
9:00, 11:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00 - 2.5 hours
Na Toei - B30 - several departures between 8:00 and 15:00 - 1.5 hours
Boten - B40 - Dep 8:00, 9:00 - 2 hours
Udomxai - B75 - Dep AM - 5 hours
Huay Xai - B250 - Dep 8:30 - 8 to 12 hours
Buses from Na Toei:
Luang Namtha - B30 - Dep
08:00 to 16:00 - 1.5 hours
Boten - B15 - Dep 8:00 to 16:00 - 0.5 hours
Udomxai - B60 - Dep 8:00 to 16:00 - 3.5 hours
Note: buses to/from Boten are via Udomxai
Plane schedules
Vientiane - 1 or 2
times per week - US$80
Luang Prabang - 1 or 2 times per week US$37
Huay Xai - 1 or 2 times per week - US$41
Warnings
None specific to the town.
Medical Services
Er.....
In Brief
Luang Prabang is the
much-hyped 'jewel' of Laos and on the whole the town lives up to its reputation.
It is a beautiful and atmospheric town of stunning architecture, majestic history
and formidable culture. LP can be extremely crowded between December and March
and at Pi Mai (Lao New Year, which occurs in April).
Hotels and
guesthouses
Between Dec and March
almost all accommodation fills up by lunchtime, and pre-booking for Lao new
year (Pi Mai) is essential.
Near the Mekong in Ban Wat That area:
Saylom Khemkong GH (212 304), Kim Khong St. Basic rooms up or downstairs B100 or B125
Soomphol Phaky GH (252166) near the above. Rooms B125 - worth checking availability.
Vanvisa Villa, first south-facing soi off Kim Khong. Rooms $5 or $8 with private bath. Large, charming rooms and good atmosphere.
Viradesa GH (252026), second soi off Kim Khong. Dorm $1, Sgl $2, Dbl $3 or $4, $5/6 with shower. Cheap and friendly.
Viradesa GH No 2 (252268) just down the same soi. Dorm $1, sgl B100, dbl B125, packed dorm so rather noisy, small garden
Wat That GH (212913) soi as above. Sgl B75, Dbl B150, charming clean rooms and small garden.
Vilay GH, 3rd soi, rooms B200, worth checking
Tanoy GH, 3rd soi, OK sgl, Dbl or Tpl B125, 175 or 350. Expensive for what you get.
Suankeo GH No 2, 3rd soi, Sgl B90, Dbl 110 or 125 for upstairs.
Rattana GH (252255) 3rd soi, spotless and pleasant dbl B250, slightly overpriced though…
Souksavat GH, 4th Soi, OK rooms B100 or 125 (upstairs) but noisy as bad location and noisy chickens (although this is not the only GH with this problem…)
Slightly to the north
Phousy GH (212 973) lane north of the museum, basic clean rooms B175 but overpriced
Chaliny GH (252377), Ban Choumkhong. Clean room $7 or $11 with HW shower - again, overpriced
Sikhounmuang GH, near Wat Nong Sikhunmeang. Ok dbl or tpl B150 (latter v. good value). Great view from some rooms
Pa Phai GH, near Wat Paa Phai, sgl $4, Dbl $8 with shared bath. Atmospheric Franco-Lao house.
Heritage GH opposite the above, nice clean double with HW shower $10 - expensive
South of Phou Si hill, near Kitsalat Road
Phonethavy GH, turn right just after Phousi hotel and the school, walk 100m. Excellent rooms B150 or B200 with HW shower. Good value
Kounsavan GH (212297) just after the above. Small but clean rooms for B100 sgl, B190 dbl. Not for tall people - the ceilings are low.
Chaleunsouk GH (212747) on the right after the above. All rooms are pleasant and clean and have HW shower. Sgl B150, Dbl 175 or 200. French spoken. Cheapest attached shower in town.
Vieng Xay GH, a bit off Kitsalat street, turn right just after the hospital. Dble B40 (1 person) or B50 for 2 people - no, these are not a typo. Tpl with cold shower B75. Acceptable rooms at bargain price. Beds not 100% clean, cold shower, but what do you expect?
Viengkeo GH (212 271) further down Setthathirat road. Lovely, charming house, rooms B75 or 100, B150 with cold shower.
Food and
drink
Khao Biak Sen, Xiang
Thong Road, is one of the best noodle shops in town. Round rice noodles cooked
over an open fire outside a decaying French house. Very tasty.
Luang Prabang Bakery, Xiang Thong Road. Run by a Hmong woman who studied pastry in Bangkok and whose cooking is excellent. Great sandwiches.
Duang Champa, Kingkitsalat Rd, Lao and French cuisine in stylish surroundings. Colonial splendour and a comprehensive bar.
Han Somtam Khaem Khong Wat Nong, Manthatoulat Road - identify it by the green doors. Serves LP's best spicy papaya salad. Can you handle the chilli burn? I doubt it, but you should try.
Le Potiron, Xiang Thong Road. Cheap French and euro food bistro, Pizza especially good, and exceptional deserts. Best place in town for budget binge of non-Lao grub.
Villa Santi, Xiang Thong Road. LP's classiest hotel, the restaurant is excellent but not prohibitively expensive. Lao food is the best choice, with many dishes around $2/3. Worth it.
Vannida Sunset, Ban Wat That, is the nicest riverside bar for a sunset beer, although the food is pretty average.
Email/Internet
PlaNet Online internet café is on Phothisalat Road, opposite Wat Paa
Phai. It offers free tea, coffee and water, staff with bad jokes and an owner
with big hair.
Telephone
The telephone office is on Thanon Kitsalat near the Mekong end, next to the
Post Office. It's open from 7.30am until 10pm. Remember that reverse charge
calls (that's collect call in yankee English) cannot be made anywhere in Laos.
Banks/Moneychangers
Lane Xang Bank at 65 Thanon Phothisalat can change travellers cheques and will
process Visa card cash advances for a 3% charge. They also have a branch in
the Post Office.
What to see
Temples around the town. In particular, do not miss the most famous, Wat Xieng
Thong, which is breathtaking in shape and decoration. The grounds of the what
also contain other interesting buildings, including a shrine, a chapel and Funerary
Carriage Hall which is really a small museum. However most of the other temples
are also worth a look, so just check out whatever takes your fancy even if you
are not a massive temple fan. The most popular charge small admission fees.
Architecture - many of LP's fabulous buildings have or are being restored and
their fabulous mix of Asian and European styles are often truly exotic. Walk
the streets and enjoy. The UNESCO information centre offers an insight into
some of the restoration work being carried out here.
Tak Baht (alms giving). You need to be up before 6am in order to watch (or take
part in) this most famous of Buddhist rituals. Every day, all the monks in LP
walk the streets to receive offerings of food. If you can ignore the fact that
every other tourist in town will be watching with you, the sight is still extremely
evocative and well worth getting up for. There are so many temples that the
streets are often filled with one very long line of saffron robes - cameras
at the ready… The monks go south the main street, turn right on the lane
north of the Museum and right again on the "Mekong" Street. This walk
takes them about 30 minutes.
The Royal Palace Museum (Haw Kham) is open daily 08.00 to 11.00 & 13:30 to 16.00, and costs K10.000. T-shirts & shorts are OK if they're not too short or scuffy, however all bags and cameras must be left at reception. This palace was the residence of King Sisavangvong between 1904 and his death in 1959, and you can see period bedrooms and other living quarters, all of which remain intact. There are also plenty of interesting artifacts in the museum, including gifts to the Lao monarchy from around the world, paintings, a solid gold Buddha image which gave the town its name, and the wonderful Japanese glass mosaic in the throne room. Well worth a look round.
Phu Si hill gives a spectacular view of the valley LP nestles in, and is very popular at sunset. Only one side charge the dollar admission fee so walk round until you find the free staircase!
The Kuang Si Falls are the area's most famous. They are some 29km south of town, which equates to a little over 1 hour by tuk-tuk. Chartering one costs around $10 so if money isn't spilling out of your pocket you'll need to find others to share with - not normally a problem. If you want to see the top of the falls, where there are several beautiful turquoise pools, go down the main street, pass the shops and turn left just before the end of the parking. Simply walk about 15 minutes upstream and you'll see what most visitors miss. Coming in the main entrance, you'll have to pay, but it is well worth it since the falls are extremely beautiful (and cold in the rainy season!).
Pak Ou Caves, 25 km by boat along the Mekong, around 2 hours upstream, 1 hour downstream, K8.000 + per person. To charter a boat costs about $15 so it makes sense to share. The caves themselves are probably not the best you will have seen, although they are still interesting due to the sheer volume of Buddha images crammed inside, but it is the journey which is worth doing. Great scenery and entertaining village stops along the way. One village makes its own special Lao Lao (rice whisky), so watch out…
What to buy
LP is chock full of touristy souvenir shops selling all the usual stuff plus
plenty of home-grown specialities. There's a lot made from saa paper (from mulberry
plants), for instance books, photo albums and paper lanterns/lightshades. There
are also exotic rubbings from temple walls, and some of the most attractive
fabrics to be found anywhere in Laos - and at good prices if you seek out the
less obvious vendors. This is the best town in the country for shopping, and
you could end up with loads of stuff if you want, including luxury coffee and
cigarettes, greetings cards, wrapping paper, etc etc.
Fun Fun Fun
Well, there is one permanent nightclub in town, in the Rama Hotel on Thanon
Wisunulat, and Lao nightclubs are almost always enjoyable - check it out if
you've not had this experience yet. The Muangsua Hotel opens a night club on
weekends and sometimes on holiday days too. Other than that most places close
early. To give you an idea of LP's nocturnal activities, any football match
screened at night can attract huge audiences of 50 or more, audiences which
spill out on to the street. Those at the back can't really see the match, but
they hang around anyway!
Transport around town
The best way to see LP is on foot (unless it is excruciatingly hot, when a bike
might be better). It is compact, or at least the centre is, and as there is
a constant stream of things worth looking at, it is best to proceed slowly and
have a chance to take it all in. For slightly longer distances you can hire
the usual jumbos or tuk-tuks.
Bus Schedules
The two bus stations
are a bit out of town. A Tuk-tuk should cost K2000 to the North Station and
K3000 to the South Station. In the table below all buses depart from the North
Station except those marked with a *.
To Price Road Duration (hours)
Time No. Frequency
Pak Mong K8500 good 2.5 from 8 4 Departs when full
Nong Khiaw K11000 good 3.5 from 7 1 Departs when 20 people
Udomxai K17000 good 5 from 7 3 Departs when full
Luang Nam Tha* K29000 ok 9 8 1 na
Sam Neua* K40000 ? 24 8 1 na
Vang Vieng K30000 good 6 7,10,11,13:30 4 na
Vientiane K40000 good 9 7,9,11,13:30 4 na
Notes : There is an overnight stop going to Sam Neua/Vang Vieng buses also continue
to to Vientiane except the 10am bus.
Flight schedules
Bangkok: During the high season (December to March) Angel Air fly to/from Bangkok
for $100 each way. There are 4 flights per week, non stop on Wed & Sun or
via Chiang Rai on Mon & Fri for $70.
Kumming, China: $100, once a week.
Vientiane: $55, 3 flights daily
Phonsavan (for Plain of
Jars, best way to go if road 7 is still closed): $35, daily. From Phonsavan
you can fly onto Vientiane for $44.
Huay Xai : around $40, daily
Luang Namtha : around $40,
twice weekly
Boat Schedules
To Nong Khiaw: K43.000 per person, upriver, 6 hours. It will leave with only
a few people as it has to make this return trip. From Nong Khiaw, it costs K65.000
per person with a minimum of 8 people. There is however a downside: the boat
does not always have sufficient passengers from Nong Khiaw everyday, so nobody
can tell you for sure when there will be a departure from Luang Prabang. You
just need to keep on asking every day…
To Pakbeng : Slow boats depart daily at 8am. The journey takes 2 days and 1
night as upstream, for K45.000. There is also a "fast" slow boat (1
day only) on Monday & Friday for the same price. A speed boat should be
around K90.000 each if it is full (3-4 hours). Make sure you're feeling lucky
before you get on though.
To Huay Xai details are
as above. Journey takes 3 days 2 nights or 2 days 1 night on the "fast"
slow boat. The cost is K85.000 or, for a speed boat, K180.000 (7 hours).
It is also possible in theory to go all the way to Vientiane by boat but departures
are now infrequent as it is much faster & cheaper by road. Look into it
if you are seriously interested.
Warnings
Other than the usual need to exercise caution at a general level, in terms of
personal and possession security, LP is not normally considered an unsafe place
- strange, that! However at least one traveller has been killed at the Kuang
Si waterfalls, in a drowning accident.
Medical Services
For anything requiring more than very minor treatment you should fly either
Northeast Thailand (via Vientiane) or to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. However
minor ailments could be dealt with either by a pharmacy or by the provincial
hospital which is in town.
In Brief
Nowadays a traveller's
favourite, MS is a small town of Tai Leu stock, with a large Chinese presence.
Hotels and
guesthouses
The best places are
behind the market, since they are quieter than those on the main street:
Singsai Guesthouse, good rooms or bungalows w. shower B75. Most rooms pleasant, good but quiet location.
Siang Savang Guesthouse, singles or doubles with shower B75. Rooms upstairs are large and pleasant.
Champadaeng Guesthouse,
just behind the market, before the above two / OK rooms w. shower B75 / Go there
for the private outside access to the rooms (most GH closes their door at 9pm)
On the main street:
Sengkhatiyavong GH, adequate standard rooms without shower B50(1), B70(2) or B100(3)
Viengxay GH, Slightly shabby
rooms B100 w. shower, B75 without and not worth the money.
Viengphone GH, again not the cleanest rooms, with fan B75 w. shower, B50 without
Tailu GH, Small clean rooms w. big bathrooms B75, not a bad GH.
Muangsing GH, slightly off the main road. OK rooms without shower B75. Some rooms with a view of the wat. Friendly owners.
Singthong GH, Basic rooms, not the cleanest, without shower B75. Expensive for what you get.
Sengdeuane GH, about 300m on the left after the bridge. Big, basic rooms for 1, 2 or 3 people for B50, much better rooms w. shower in nice house B150 or 200. Great views, noisy karaoke nearby.
Outside of town:
Adima GH, 8km away,
in a beautiful area of rural villages. Yao & Ikho style bungalows with thatched
roofs, balconies & shower for B150 to B200. In town, you can inquire about
room availability at Viengxai GH or Amousome Restaurant. Adima organise transport
at 9.00 and 15.00 for B10. This is a beautiful, relaxing place, although the
prices of food etc tend to be higher than in town because of the extra distance.
Food and
drink
The restaurants of the Viengxay and Viengphone GH's serve all the usual staples
including western breakfasts.
Email/Internet
Maybe by the time you get there.
Telephone
In the post office opposite the market.
Banks/Moneychangers
There is a
branch of the Lane Xang bank next to the market.
What to see
Trekking is possible from here, and ideally you should arrange a guide rather
than attempting to go it alone. Not only will you not get lost, but a guide
can ease your passage into villages and teach you about the different tribes.
Muang Sing exhibitions is a display of local artefacts housed in a old Franco-Lao
house.
What to buy
Tribal crafts.
Fun Fun Fun
The best time to visit Muang Sing is the full moon between late October and
mid-November, when the That Muang Sing festival is held.
Transport around town
Your own two feet or a tuk tuk.
Bike hire is available from two places near the bridge.
Bus Timetable
To Huay Xai, you have the choice of either to take the bus from Luang Nam Tha
(road permitting, usually OK, 8 to 12 hours depending on weather, around B300,
departure early morning) or a speed boat from Xieng Kok (3 to 4 hours, B800,
departure when people show up). See Huay Xai for more info about those trips.
Travelers go to Xieng Kok daily to try to catch a Chinese slow cargo to Huay
Xai. I did not get any report of any success... Did you ?
Bus Schedules:
To Price Road Duration Time Nb Freq.
Luang Nam Tha B40 ok 2.5 8,9,10,11,12 5 na
Xieng Kok B65 ok 2 9,11 2 na
Note : To Xieng Kok via Muang Long Village (B45)
Warnings
Take suitable precautions whilst trekking, and never do it alone.
Medical Services
None.
In
Brief
The Nam Ngum
Reservoir is a huge, picturesque lake 90 km north of Vientiane, which was created
by a hydropower project completed in 1971. In this landlocked nation the site
of so much water, and its remarkable shade of blue, are a welcome sight.
Hotels
and guesthouses
Don Dok Khoun
Kham GH is a decaying, spooky hulk of a GH which makes for a rather atmospheric
adventure unless you're on your own.
DanSaVanh Nam Ngum resort is situated at one end of the lake, a tacky but mysterious Malaysian owned gambling haven in a country where gambling is not allowed.
EDL bungalows are expensive (US$15-20) but the nicest accommodation available. They are a few km's away from the lake though.
Nam Ngum Boat Hotel is moored at Na Nam village itself.
Don Mitthaphab GH is in even worse condition than the one on Don Dok Khoun Kham but could still be fun as long as you've got a sense of humour. So that excludes a few nationalities then…
Food
and drink
There are several extremely tasty fish restaurants at Na Nam village, all offering
fresh fish for good prices. My mouth is watering as I remember. They get very
busy at the weekends.
Email/Internet
None.
Telephone
Try at the Nam Ngum resort.
Banks/Moneychangers
None. Thai baht only is accepted at the casinos though, so don't turn up only
with kip.
What to see
You can hire a boat
to tour the islands which is fun. Best is to take a fish picnic out to an island
and get dropped off (arrange a collection time with your boat).
What to buy
Fish. Baseball caps with 'lao pdr' are also cheap.
Fun Fun Fun
It's not a struggle to enjoy yourself here.
Transport around the lake
Swim or charger a boat (quite expensive unless there are a few of you). You
can bargain down the advertised prices.
Bus timetables
Buses from Vientiane's morning market stop a few km from the lake in Thalat.
Tuk tuks and pick ups are also available.
Plane timetables
None.
Warnings
None.
Medical Services
None.
In Brief
A village surrounded
by some of the most spectacular scenery in Laos. NK is situated at the bottom
of a gorgeous red-tinted cliff.
Hotels and guesthouses
Electricity
is normally only available from 6 to 9 or 10pm.
Vandy GH, near the pier. Simple rooms without electric light K10,000 (1) or
K15,000 (2). Overpriced.
Manipoon GH, Pleasant rooms with light K10,000. Friendly place with free tea.
You can ask for hot water if you can't face a cold shower.
Sanhty GH, small and lightless rooms for K8,000.
Somgnot GH, extremely basic rooms with mattresses rather than proper beds: K5,000.
These are the cheapest lighted rooms in town, although you will probably be
sharing the light between two rooms!
Philasouk GH, near the bridge, with adequate rooms for K10,000. Noisy generator
but good views of the river from some rooms.
Phosai GH, beyond the school, a few minutes walk from the bridge. Simple rooms
without light K5,000 (1) K7,000 (2) or K10,000 (3). Good location and friendly
staff.
Sainamou GH, near the pier. Room with light K7,000. Good views from some rooms.
Boupha GH, after the school. Dorm beds (3) for K4,000 and singles for K8,000.
Check it out !
Phayboun GH, standard rooms with electric light K10,000.
Food
and drink
Boupha Restaurant,
next to the school. Great food cooked by a fun couple.
Email/Internet
Nope.
Telephone
Nope.
Banks/Moneychangers
You must head to Pak Mong, some 50 minutes away by bus.
What to see
The best thing to do in NK is simply to wander around, exploring the local area.
When you get tired of walking, take a refreshing dip in the Nam Ou. Simple but
delightful pleasures, my friends.
What to buy
A torch or candles, if you don't have them already.
Fun Fun Fun
Beer, and going to bed early with a book.
Transport around town
Walking, or hitching a boat ride on the river - people will usually pick you
up for nothing.
Bus timetables
Leave Nong Khiaw ?
The best way would be to take a slow boat upriver to Muang Khua (K240.000 per
boat or K30.000 per people if enough, 6 hours) or downriver to Luang Prabang
(K520.000 per boat or K65.000 per people if enough, 6 hours) but the prices
& min people requirements might prevent you from doing so. Note that it
cost only K43.000 per people (and that boat accept to leave with a few passengers
only) to go upriver from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw.
The village also resonate from time to time with the noise of speed boats but
those are coming from Luang Prabang or Muang Khua and seem to cater to tourists
only.
To experience the river without spending too much, go relax at old Muang Ngoi,
1 hour & K7.000 away. For this price, you need about 10 people or to wait
for the regular boat.
Otherwise, tuk-tuk regularly go to Pak Mong (K6000) from where you can connect
with a bus or truck going to Udomxai (K10000) or Luang Prabang (K8500). Direct
bus or tuk-tuk also go to Luang Prabang for K11000.
Bus Schedules
:
To Price Road Duration Time Nb Freq.
Pak Mong B30 ok 1h15 day a few hour
Luang Prabang B55 good 3.5 8/10-12/14-15 3 na
Vieng Kham B75 ? 2 12 1 every two days
Notes : From Pak Mong to Udomxai (B50, 3 hrs) or Luang Prabang (2.5 hrs) / To
Luang Prabang, also a few tuk-tuk / To Vieng Kham, coming from Luang Prabang
then returning there
The Trip to Old Muang Ngoi : SSSS / everywhere / B35 / 2 hours / Slow boat
Having been told that the boat would leave at 7am, we showed up at 6:30. Too
early : we realized after all that there would not be any boat before 8 and
we were too few to charter one (K70.000).
Fortunately, more travelers showed up an hour later : we were 9 totally and
all paid the K7000. Could we expect to leave soon ? Off course not : they wanted
10 foreigners and not a single less.
Could they not take locals with us ? Apparently no : we were explained that
it would be a foreigners trip. Some of us were willing to pay the additional
K7000 but half the group preferred to wait. At the time we had decided to pay
anyway, we were told that the boat would leave soon. It was 9:15 already and
it took another fifteen minutes for the boat to fill up with local people who
suddenly appeared from nowhere. And so we left, on a nice river cruise (at least
if not sitting next to the engine) that was supposed to take 1 hour but took
two as we stopped a long time next to a village for a special delivery...
The Trip to Luang Prabang : SSS / L&R / B55 / 3.5 hrs / Tuk-Tuk
A Tuk-Tuk to Luang Prabang was waiting for passengers at the pier when I came
back from old Muang Ngoi. It was really packed with bags but people also managed
to fit in. The road was holy until Pak Mong then real smooth... And of course,
the scenery was worth staying awake. Some things fortunately never change...
The North bus station is about 2km out of Luang Prabang but, being told 6km,
I boarded a very slow motorcycle taxi for K2000. After 10mn, I arrived at a
full guesthouse...
See also the trip from Old Muang Ngoi
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
Quite a few travellers
end up staying a night here because the ferries between Vientiane and Luang
Prabang stop here.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Khemekong, near the
town square. 13 wooden rooms that are normally occupied by government officials.
Ban Na is better, with nice rooms and a view over the river.
Pak Lay is a bit further out, 1 km from the ferry landing, and has some pretty modest rooms.
Food and
drink
The best restaurant
is on the town square, a nameless place that can do some tasty rice dishes.
Other than that there is the usual selection of small foe places.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
N/A
Banks/Moneychangers
No banks but a few dudes with bundles of kip.
What to see
The river, and that's about it!
What to buy
N/A
Fun Fun Fun
N/A
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Sayaboury - 1 to 3 deps, leaving when full - 3-4 hours
Kenthao - 1-2 deps - 1-2 hours
Boat timetables
Occasionally river barges make the journey north to Luang Prabang, but better
roads have put an end to much traffic on this route.
Alternatively you could charter a speedboat to Luang Prabang for about US$50.
Bring your earplugs.
From here to Vientiane takes 1 and a half days by slow boat or about 5 hours
by speedboat.
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
Paksan is a commercial
centre and is not normally of interest to tourists. However, it is often in
these sorts of places that the most interesting stuff happens, so you might
consider giving it a shot.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Phonesai - basic rooms
with shared facilities.
Manolom - basic rooms but slightly newer.
Food and
drink
None of Paksan's restaurants
are that great but you can find foe and other Lao staples.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
Ask at one of the hotels.
Banks/Moneychangers
As for banks, don't think so, although you may well find moneychangers.
What to see
Wat Pha Baat Phonsan lies in between Vientiane and Paksan, and has a large Buddha
Footprint shrine. It is an important pilgrimmage site for Lao people in this
region. The footprint itself is rather tacky but it can be interesting to visit
just to see what the crack is.
What to buy
Nothing
Fun Fun Fun
N/A
Transport around town
Nothing terribly exciting, just the usual motley assortment of clapped out tuk
tuks...
Bus timetables
Buses pass through from Vientiane and Savannakhet and you might even be lucky
enough to get a seat on one of them. There are also a couple of buses which
depart from Paksan itself.
Plane timetables
Paksan has no airport.
Warnings]
N/A
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
Pakse is for most
travellers only a transit town, but whilst there is nothing especially spectacular
to see here, it can be worthwhile precisely because of that - you can see some
real Laos in a place without many packpackers! Ace!
Hotels and
Guesthouses
Phone Savanh Hotel (212842), near the Mekong bridge. Small single downstairs
B75, Double B80, Dbl upstairs B100, Trpl B125, Dbl w. cold shower B175. No hot
water. Friendly but grotty backpacker haunt because it is the cheapest in town.
Shared bathrooms are dingy and the place as a whole is rather dirty.
Suksamlan Hotel (212002), just a bit south from the Phone Savanh. Sgl or Dbl w. AC and HW shower about $11 (only K3500 less for the sgl) Not bad but also not really worth this kind of money. If you're good at bargaining it could be worth it.
Salachampa Hotel (212273), south of the above. Old French colonial gaff, rather nice. Rooms w. AC & shower $12 (single), $15(double), Triple $20, upstairs Double $20. Charming garden.
Vannapha GH (212502), Road 9, 10 minute walk south. Very basic doubles B150, slightly better rooms with cold shower B175, also more expensive rooms in the front yard (bungalow style). Nice and quiet but not too clean.
Food and
drink
Pakse has the best food in the South, and you should make the most of it since
elsewhere your choices will be limited!
Korean Meat, Road No. 46, is the best of the two Korean BBQ places.
May Kham, No 35 Road, is an excellent Chinese restaurant with a reputation as
the best joint in town.
Sedone, No 5 road. Chinese, Lao, Thai and falang food, all of it excellent.
Tone Phao Khou, No 9 Road. Excellent fish dishes of every kind.
Email/Internet
At the time of writing there were reportedly two places in town charging higher
rates than Vientiane or Savannakhet.
Telephone
Calls can be made from the Post Office on the corner of Roads no 8 and 1.
Banks/Moneychangers
Banks change both
TC & cash at a good rate. If you're leaving Laos, and have kept your certificates
of exchange, you can change your remaining Kip back to Baht or US$. Without
certificates or outside banking hours, Phone Savanh Hotel also do the same operation
but at a bad rate.
What to see
Aside from the joys
of Lao nightclubbing, having a laugh with the locals or getting pished, there
isn't a hell of a lot to do in town itself. However in the surrounding area
there are some good day trips.
In town, or rather 1.5km east of town on Route 13 is the Champasak Provincial
Museum (Mon to Fri, 8.30am to 11.30am and 2-4.00pm, 1000kip) which is not too
bad.
The Champassak Palace Hotel is also worth a look if you're not staying there.
The 100m high Tad Fane Waterfall can be found one km from the village at Km37
(towards Paksong)
Go hiking to minority villages at Tadlo Resort in the Bolaven Plateau (2 hours
away toward saravane)
Buy traditional skirts woven at Saphai Village, 24 km north (also the remains
of Wat Phonhsay)
You can ride elephants inside the Dong Houa Sao Forest Reserve at Phapho Village,
67 km south on route 13
What to buy
You may wish to buy your Vietnamese visa in Pakse. Here it costs $50 ($5 cheaper
than in Vientiane), takes 3 working days and requires only 1 photo. There is
no need to leave your passport at the consulate.
Fun Fun Fun
There are quite a few nightclubs in town that are worth checking out (as long
as you are not expecting something other than a Lao nightclub).
Transport around town
You can get around on foot without problem, or can hire a tuk tuk or motorcycle
with sidecar.
Arriving
Some travellers do not recommend the boat between Si Phan Don & Champasak.
See Si Phan Don section for a suggested itinerary.
Bus Schedules
To Price Road Duration
(hours) Time No Freq.
Savannakhet K17000 bad 9 7 to 15 a few hour
Ban Muang K4000 good 1 ? a few hour
Don Khong K12000 good 3 8 to 9 1 or 2 na
Don Khon K15000 good 3.5 7,8:30,10,11,13 5 na
Tadlo Resort K8000 ? 2 8,9 2 na
Attapeu K15000 ? 8 7:30,9,10 3 na
Notes : To Savannakhet buses depart from North bus Station. Buses also go to Vientiane (K26000, a lot of hours) and to Don Khong via Ban Muang, 3km from Champasak
Boat Schedules
To Price Duration
(hours) Time No Freq.
Champasak K5000 2 7,9,12,13 4 na
Don Khong K20000 8 to 11 7 to 8 1 or 2 na
Crossing to Thailand
Firstly, you cross the river to Muang Kao (K1000, 10 mins), then take a tuk-tuk (K4000, 45 mins) to the border at Vangtao. The border is open daily from 6.00 to 18.00. 16.00 to 18.00 and Sat & Sund are considered overtime and require an additional K10,000 or B50 fee. It is also overtime on the Thai side but you don't have to pay them crossing in. Once in Chong Mek, songthaews leave every 20mn from 6 to 17 to Phibun (B20, 1 hour), from where you will can change for a songthaew to Ubon Ratchatani (B20, 2 hours). You should arrive at the train station. From Chong Mek, AC buses going all the way to Bangkok were reported leaving at 4pm & 5pm. Those buses will take you to Ubon for B60.
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
The town hospital is south of the market on road no 9. Chance it at your own
risk.
In Brief
A rainy and cool town,
due to its elevation of 1400m, Phongsali town is a good centre for making visits
around the province should you be interested in visiting minorities.
Hotels
and guesthouses
Phongsali Hotel,
opposite the bus station. Shared baths, and 3 or 4 beds in every room.
Phou Fa Hotel, high up near the immigration office. This used to be the Chinese consulate and has a certain wierd charm. Rather musty singles and doubles, but a beer garden with a view.
Phongsali GH, fresh inside and quieter than the others. Two or three bed rooms.
Laksoun, with noisy doubles.
Food and drink
Any of the above places do food, with the best from the Laksoun.
Email/Internet
No. The nearest access is probably China...
Telephone
There is a card operated long-distance phone in front of the post office, but
no international phone.
Banks/Moneychangers
Opposite the post office. It can change dollars, kip and yuan, but not traveller's
cheques.
What to see
The 'Old Quarter' of the town is fascinating. A wander around these streets
turns up some activities and produce that you don't see elsewhere in Laos. Cobblestones
and mud-brick buildings add to a distinctly 'back in time' feeling...
What to buy
Not much except a jumper if you're getting cold...
Fun Fun Fun
Practising your Chinese, perhaps, or drinking Chinese beer.
Transport around town
Pick ups and jeeps.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Oudomxai - Dep 07.00 - 2 hours
Hat Sa - Dep AM - 2 hours
Plane
timetables
Lao Aviation fly to Phongsali only on the odd occasion.
Warnings
Don't come without some warm clothes, particularly during the cold season.
Medical Services
Not many
In Brief
Phonsavanh is the
centre of tourism for the Plain of Jars, the plateau famous for its huge stone
jars. The town itself is relatively unappealing but it is the obvious place
to stay to visit the jars.
Note that Phonsavanh, the capital of xieng khouang district, is often called xieng khouang itself.
Hotels
and guesthouses
Vinh Thong,
at the east end of the town on Route 7. Simple clean rooms. Offers free airport
pick up and good tourist info.
Muang Phuane, Route 7. Cheap rooms with ensuites.
Dokkhoun, Route 7. Clean doubles with balconies and ensuites.
Hay Hin, Route 7. Cheap and simple
Daophouan, opposite the market. A notch up from its rivals, but slightly more expensive as a result. All have ensuites.
Maly, near the bank. Good rooms and an excellent restaurant.
Phonsavanh, Route 7. Adequate but uninspiring.
Phu Chan, 2km outside of town. This place is a resort owned by Thais. 5 individual wooden cabins with great facilities and views. Nice.
Phu Pha Daeng, on a hill southeast of town. This is another place offering cabins, each with their own fireplace. Also has a restaurant with good views.
Phudoi, 700m south of the market. Complete range of rooms including a VIP suite. Nice touchs but not the cheapest.
Food and
drink
Sangah offers tasty
falang and Lao food and is normally packed with foreigners.
Phonekeo has good noodles.
Nang Sila has the best lunchtime foe.
Email/Internet
None as yet, although by the time you read this…
Telephone
At the post office.
Banks/Moneychangers
Opposite the Phudoi hotel.
What to see
How about some jars? The best sites are those that are least visited, since
you don't have the problem of other people spoiling the atmosphere and the views.
Cover a bit of distance and you'll be rewarded.
What to buy
Don't even think about buying any UXO, since this encourages people to go and
collect it, with the result that they get injured or killed.
Fun Fun Fun
There are a few nightclubs in town which can be fun.
Transport around town
...and more importantly around the Plain, is easy to arrange. There are plenty
of jumbos and old taxis available, although during the rainy season you might
have to arrange a 4WD in order to guarantee getting to where you want to go.
Bus timetables
Buses To:
Udomxai - Dep early morning- 12 hours
Sam Neua - Dep early morning - 12 hours
Vientiane/ Luang Prabang - 2 or 3 days to Vientiane via route 13 and 7 - but
probably not open to foreigners.
Pakxan - not recommended due to security risks.
Plane timetables
Lao Aviation flies to/from Vientiane once or twice a day, or not at all depending
on the weather.
Flights to Luang Prabang leave four times weekly although departure times can't
be predicted exactly.
Warnings
Don't stray off marked trails on the Plain since there is some risk of UXO,
especially at the lesser-visited sites.
Medical Services
A basic hospital.
In Brief
A rough and ready
town amidst some truly gorgeous scenery, Sayaboury is not a much-visited town
and could be worth going to for that reason alone.
Hotels and guesthouses
Seng Keo, with good doubles and a clean bathroom.
Pha Xang, near the post office, has a nice courtyard if not such nice rooms. There is a club attached but it shuts at 11.30pm so you won't be kept awake all night.
Next door to the above is a big government hotel which I don't know the name of. Could be quite good though.
Hong Vilay has basic but fine rooms.
Food and drink
Nang Noy, across from the market, serves tasty rice and noodle dishes in modest surroundings.
Saynamhoung has some equally good food.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
N/A
Banks/Moneychangers
No banks and it can be difficult to find someone to change your money here -
although not impossible as long as you don't mind a not brilliant rate.
What to see
Small town life..
What to buy
There is, surprisingly enough, a handicraft shop selling local textiles - which
are pretty good.
Fun Fun Fun
Not a lot. Bring your pack of cards.
Transport around town
Walk it, baby!
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Paklai - 1-3 deps daily - 3 to 4 hours
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
Don't die of small town fever.
Medical Services
N/A
In Brief
saravane had the misfortune
to be located on the edge of the Ho Chi Minh trail, and as such was bombed flat
by B-52 strikes in the early 1970's. Despite the lack of old buildings which
is the major trait of the town today, it is still worth visiting if you want
to see somewhere that most visitors to Laos won't.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Saise is located near
the market. It is the local government GH, and in fact the only accommodation
in town, with singles with shared bath up to doubles with ensuite and aircon.
Food and
drink
Vilaivane has a bar of sorts, and some quite good Chinese, Lao and Vietnamese
dishes.
The Saise GH has a restaurant, where they will go to the market after you've
ordered - so be prepared to wait!
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
National calls can be made at the post office, near the market.
Banks/Moneychangers
A branch of the Phak Tai bank is near the market. It can't exchange traveller's
cheques.
What to see
Mr Bounthone, the provincial tourism officer whose office is in the Saise GH,
is a good source of information on what you can do in the area. The most interesting
thing to do, if you're in town at the right time, might be to visit a festival
in a nearby ethnic minority village.
What to buy
Some tasty coffee from the Bolavens plateau is available.
Fun Fun Fun
There used to be a nightclub in town, although it might have closed - ask around.
Transport around town
There are a small number of tuk-tuks.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Pakse - 4 daily - 3 and a half hours
Taoy - 1 daily - 5 hours
Toumlan - 1 daily - 2 hours
Xekong - 2 daily - 4 hours
Plane timetables
Flights to saravane were suspended in 1995 pending resurfacing of the runway.
Warnings
Don't venture off marked paths because of the danger of UXO.
Medical Services
None.
In Brief
Sam Neua is notable
because it is near Vieng Sai, a district of immense historic significance in
Laos' recent history. The caves of Vieng Sai housed the leaders of the Pathet
Lao, the Lao communist movement, during the long years of bombing which were
of the secret war against the Americans.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Lao Houng , near the
bridge. A variety of rooms, pay for a private bathroom if you can since the
shared ones are grim.
Khaem Xam, near the bridge. Six clean rooms and hot showers. Friendly staff.
Phanxay, a restored French villa, 500m from the bus station towards the victory monument. A dorm and singles/doubles.
Thath Mouang, near the stadium. Nice restaurant and terrace, average rooms all with shared bath.
Dokmaidieng, near the market. Average singles, doubles and triples.
Food
and drink
The Khaem Xam restaurant is next to the hotel, and is about the only place in
town where you don't have to order in advance if you want something other than
foe. English menu, too.
Other than that there are the usual foe shops, ask around and they can prepare
you other stuff with advance warning and payment.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
N/A
Banks/Moneychangers
A branch of Alounmay bank can be found near the Wat.
What to see
See the Vieng Sai section for visiting the caves.
The market is well worth a peak and there are some very cheap textiles to be
had, although most of the designs are not as nice as in other parts of Laos.
What to buy
Some clothes to keep warm perhaps?
Fun Fun Fun
As is common in these out of the way places, you've got to make your own...
Transport around town
Tuk tuks. Taxis can be hired to Vieng Sai.
Bus timetables
Most buses leave in the morning.
Buses to:
Vieng Sai - regular buses - 1 hour
Phonsavan - 11 hours
Nong Khiaw - 14 to 15 hours
Plane timetables
Vientiane - 75 minutes -
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
N/A
Savannakhet offers a glimpse of laid-back, urban Laos without the tourists of Vientiane or Luang Prabang. If its relaxation you're after, the Mekong setting and old French architecture make it an attractive place to spend a few days.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Sayamungkun GH (212426),
near Wat Sainyamungkhun, south of Tha Dan Rd / Dbl or Trpl w. cold shower $4
or $5, Dbl w. AC & HW shower $7 / Go there for the OK clean rooms / What
you may not like : the dim lightning in some rooms
Auberge du Paradis, Tha Dan Rd, just west of Phetsalat Rd / Charming rooms w. AC & HW shower $15 / Superb colonial house & small garden
Santyphad Hotel (212177), Chaleunmouang Rd, west of the above, near the Mekong / Fan or AC rooms w. cold shower K18500 or K25000 / Girls' bikes K10000 per day (7000 half day) / Go there for the best big fan rooms for this price & the old charm of this huge place / What you may not like : that this is the best you can get for this price as it is really not fresh & quite basic with dripping water in the bathroom, some broken fan and rather unprotected windows.
Mekong Hotel, north of the above, opposite the Mekong / Basic Dbl without shower $6, Nice rooms w. AC, fridge & TV $15 / No HW outside / Lack of charm and expensive.
Savanbanhao Hotel (212202), Saenna Rd, South of Sutthanu Rd, near the Chinese Temple / Basic room K15500, better w. cold water K23500, upstairs w. AC K27500, w. HW shower 35500 / Go there for the cheapest big bed in town & the OK rooms w. shower / What you may not like : the dirtiness, smell & fan noise of the cheapest rooms, the disgusting common bathroom, the not so clean other rooms.
Savan Phatthana GH (212955),
just south of the above / Dbl w. cold shower K30000, w. AC K40000 / Quite expensive
for what you
get as it is not that fresh nor clean with an ugly bathroom.
The Vietnamese Motel inside the bus station is the cheapest place in town with Dorm (6) K6000 but it is not recommended as unpleasant & unsecured (except if with friends). They also have rooms for K20000 without shower which could be convenient if you are scared of missing your early bus...
Food and
drink
The market (Talaat
Savanxay) has some great cheap Lao food. The market is 100m west of the Bus
Station.
For dinner, there are a number of excellent fish restaurants next to the Mekong. If you have transport there is a superb restaurant at km4 on route 13 heading north out of the town.
Email/Internet
On Si Muang Rd there
is at least one Internet cafe, and others will surely spring up around the town.
Banks/Moneychangers
It may not be possible
to change Kip for Baht at the town's two banks. Santyphad Hotel can do it for
a worse-than-normal exchange rate, while Phonpaseut Hotel quoted the normal
K200 per Baht.
What to see
That Ing Hang, is
considered the holiest worship place in southern Laos. The 9-metre high stupa
contains a chamber in its base, which holds a selection of Buddha images. Women
are unfortunately by custom not allowed to enter this chamber. Admission is
free. The That is 12km from the Bus Station - 9km on Route 13 towards Vientiane,
then 3km down a clearly-marked turn off towards the east. This will take you
45 minutes to an hour on a bike, 15 minutes in a
tuk-tuk (15-20,000 kip to charter one for a return trip).
Talaat Savanxay, the market, is 100m east of the Bus Station. Plenty of interesting stuff including lots of Vietnamese goods that you won't see elsewhere in Laos.
Provincial Museum - The
star attractions of this small but fun museum include dinosaur bones and meteorite
fragments. It is located on Khanthabuli Rd, North of Wat Sainyaphum. Admission
is K1000 but you should also give a tip to your guide.
Swimming Pool - there is a fabulous, long pool which belongs to the Phonepaseut
Hotel and is situated directly opposite it. There is an admission fee of K8000
for non-residents.
What to buy
You can find Vietnamese
products here that you won't find elsewhere in Laos, including some tasty wrapped
sweets and deserts.
Fun fun fun
Easily the most fun
in town is to be had at the Elvis restaurant, situated on
Travel Arrangements
Transport
around town
Bike Hire
Santhypad Hotel: ladies bikes, K10000 or K7000 half day
Xok Kai Restaurant (50m east from the hotel): mountain bikes, K5000 per day
Au Rendez-vous restaurant (pass the church, at the corner with Latsavongseuk Rd): good mountain bikes, K5000 per day
Tuk-Tuks are easy to find until around 8pm.
Arriving
There is only one bus a day from Lao Bao (the border crossing with Vietnam) to Savannakhet, leaving at 6am. You may therefore have to go first to Sepon (K7000, 2 hours), sleep there and take the 8am bus to Savannakhet the next day (K15000, 8 hours). If you have time this is actually pretty fun, if you don't mind your towns rough and ready, as no-one really stops in Xepon so you get to see something a bit different.
Leaving
The bus station is about 2km north of the city centre. A tuk-tuk there costs about K2000 per person.
The road to the border at Lao Bao is gradually being re-built, but 98% is currently in very bad shape. Even in a good car you get banged around like crazy due to the size of the potholes, craters, crevices and mudbaths. By car the journey time is at least 8 hours, more like 10 hours by bus, more if it rains. The bus leaves daily at 6am and costs K15000. It is also possible to rent an AC minibus (15 seats) for $180...
'International'buses (sounds so glamorous) leave at 11pm to Hue (K83000, 12 hrs, Mon & Thurs), Danang (K105000, Tues., Wed, Fri & Sat) via Dong Ha (K65000, daily except Sunday). There is also a bus once a month (currently on the 6th) to Hanoi for K181000.
Boats crossing the river
to Thailand leave Monday to Friday at 9,10,11,13:30,14:15 & 16, Saturday
at 10:30, 14:15 & 16, Sunday at 10:30 & 15 (Thai boat). If you see all
the massive tree trunks being exported (illegally) to Thailand, you will know
the meaning of despairing about the environment. The boat ride lasts 20 minutes
and costs K10,000. There is also a K10000 immigration fee on Saturday and Sunday
as Thai officials are working overtime!
To Vientiane, you also have the option of the 7am bus from Sensabay Co. Same
cost, same service, same speed. See Trip from Vientiane for details. It leaves
from about 1.5km south of the Bus Station, on the road going to the airport,
500 m north of Phonepaseut Hotel (tuk-tuk 1500K).
Bus
Schedules :
To Price Road Duration Time Nb Freq.
Tha Khaek K10000 good 3 7,9,11,13,14:30 5 na
Vientiane K20000 good 9 6:30,8,9:30,11:30 /14 to 21 a few na / hour
Pakse K17000 bad 9 6 1 na
Lao Bao K65000 bad 10 6 1 na
Warnings
Be careful
of what you eat, quite a few visitors seem to get dodgy stomachs here.
Climate
Medical services
The hospital in town
is the only real one in the province, but as usual for anything vaguely serious
you should go to Thailand (ideally Khon Kaen, two hour's drive away).
Quirky facts
Many of Laos' most successful political figures hail from Savannakhet (including Kaysone).
Backpacker's tips/tourist
tips (as separate column?)
In Brief
Sekong (the town itself)
is normally visited as a stopover for people heading for Attapeu, and is not
one of the main destinations in southern Laos. However it is a worth coming
here in order that you can make the boat journey to Attapeu.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Hotel Sekong has 16
rooms of varying quality.
Food
and drink
Suksamlan Restaurant,
in the hotel Sekong, has some tasty grub including a good selection of Thai
food.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
The post office, near the Hotel Sekong, has international call capability.
Banks/Moneychangers
Phak Tai bank, on the main road, changes baht and dollars cash into kip only.
What to see
Twenty minutes south of town, on the road to Attapeu, is a 6-metre high waterfall
with good swimming pools underneath.
What to buy
There are some great tribal handicrafts in town.
Fun Fun Fun
Nang Malai Thong is a restaurant that is really a nightclub - check it out.
Transport around town
There are a couple of jumbos in town, and they're pretty cheap.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Pakse - dep twice daily - 4 -5 hours
saravane - dep twice daily - 4 hours
Plane timetables
No planes fly here.
Warnings
Along with the very real danger of UXO in this province is also home to a vicious
maneating blowfish which lives in Sekong's waterways - the Paa Pao. I am not
joking.
Medical Services
Basic.
In Brief
Xepon is a surprisingly
pleasant village which makes a great stopover on the way to/from Vietnam. Despite
the fact that this village was actually completely reconstructed after being
bombed flat in the war, it has a certain charm and is surrounded by some stunning
scenery in the distance.
Hotels
and guesthouses
Government
GH - dorm style accommodation, outdoor shower.
Forestry department GH - 1.5km from centre, slightly nicer.
There is also at least one new private guesthouse which is the pick of the bunch.
Food and
drink
There's an excellent
no-name restaurant across the street from the market, with some really very
tasty food and an english menu. Plus, like all the best places in Sepon, it
has back up lights for when the electricity is turned off during storms! Yes!
There's also a good foe shop nearby.
Email/Internet
No, although there are a surprising amount of satellite dishes in town.
Telephone
None.
Banks/Moneychangers
No banks but someone will change your money if you ask around.
What to see
Nearby at Ban Dong are a couple of old American tanks.
What to buy
Some Vietnamese products at the market, perhaps.
Fun Fun Fun
Sepon is an early to bed kind of town, although you can watch Thai tv on satellite
in the restaurant until it closes.
Transport around town
This place is so small that you can easily walk.
Bus timetables
Buses to:
Daen Sawan/Lao Bao - 4 deps daily - 1 hr 15 minutes
Muang Phin - 3 deps daily - 1 hr 15 minutes
Savannakhet - 2 deps daily - 6 hr 15 minutes
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
Don't stray off paths since this is one of the main UXO zones.
Medical Services
N/A
Si Phan Don area and Don Khong
In Brief
A rapidly developing destination, Don Khong is the This is so far the main (good)
reason to come to South Laos but it will soon become the first transit point
between Laos and Cambodia as the border is due to open in Sept. And much more
visitors will obviously mean far less charm...
Don Khong is the biggest
island of Si Phan Don Area
Comment : This is were you arrive by boat from Pakse (at Muang Saen) and it
is well worth a few days. It does not have the best sceneries but it got the
best guesthouses and even round the clock electricity (in Muang Khong).
Hotels and guesthouses
Don Khong
At Muang Saen, near the boat pier from Pakse. Considering that electricity is switched off at 10pm, it is recommended to select a room with good natural aeration (that means upstairs)
Say Khong GH, just opposite the boat landing / Downstairs Dbl w. cold shower B100, Upstairs Dbl B75 / Restaurant overlooking the Mekong /Go there for the clean upstairs Dbl at good price.
Muong Sene GH, further up, just follow the touts / Dbl or Trpl w. cold shower B100, Downstairs Dbl B75 (or even B50 for Sgl occupancy) / Garden in the front / Go there for the huge wooden rooms with charm and the relative tranquility (rooster around) / What you ma not like : staying in the downstairs rooms during the humid season
At Muang Khong, opposite the bus station at Hat Xai Khun (bus to/from Pakse & Ban Nakasang)
Done Khong GH, the first GH, on the north of the big place / Basic Dbl or Trpl B100 / Go there for the cheapest rooms in the village / What you may not like : not being able to spend a bit more for a nicer & cleaner room
Villa Kang Khong (213539), on the west side of the place / Huge Dbl w. cold shower B175 but maybe down to B125 if Sgl occupancy / Little extra / Go there as this is arguably the best GH of Laos : superb teak house with relaxing reading area, great spotless well furnished rooms with western toilets,... Lots of charm & comfort for an excellent price (even if you do not get the discount) but ask to see all the rooms are some are better equipped (mosquitoes net) than others / What you may not like : having to leave...
Pon's River GH (214037), from the place 2mn on the way north, near the boat landing / Also GH on Don Khon / Rooms B100, w. cold shower B125 / Trip organized to the area (Don Khon, waterfalls, etc for K15-20000 return or K10-15000 one way plus the cost of Tuk-Tuk from Ban Nakasong) / Go there for the clean & nice rooms with charm / What you may not like : the relative noise from the surroundings
Bungalow Souksan (212071), another 3mn north / Bungalows w. HW shower B200(2) or B150(1), w. AC B350 but negotiation seemed possible / Go there for the cheapest bungalows, HW or AC in the village / What you may not like : the relatively basic rooms
Mekong GH, 5mn walk on the south path of town / Basic rooms without shower B125 / Expensive for what you get but if the other are full...
Also on this south path, two "luxury" places w. AC & HW shower at $25(1) or $30(2) : Auberge Sala Done Khong (Rooms) & Muang Khong Villa (bungalows in a nicer setting)
Food and
drink
N/A
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
N/A
Banks/Moneychangers
One bank in Muang Khong can change cash but at a relatively bad rate
What
to see
Basically, the island itself is an attraction. The nicest areas are in the North
triangle between Ban Hua Khong (boat to Pakse), Ban Hua Khong Laem and Ban Dong.
The best way to see it is of course on bike.
There is a cave (Tham Phu Kiaw) just north of Muang Khong but it is tricky to
find. The first path is easy to spot (among banana trees, after path with TV
antenna in the background) but then it goes in every direction inside the jungle.
Let me know if you find it...
The old temple just north of Muang Khong is very photogenic and the area real
relaxing.
Transport in Don Khong ? There is one 8am bus from Muang Saen to Muang Khong
(K3000, 30mn). After that and for other destinations, tuk-tuk or motorbikes
are the solutions. A whole tuk-tuk between the above and Ban Hua Khong should
cost around K20000
Leaving Don Khong ?
The boat from Pakse arrive in Muang Saen but it does not depart from there.
Boat to Pakse depart from North East Ban Hua Khong Village at 6am, which is
not really convenient. The 8-11 hours trip upriver cost K15000.
From Muang Khong, the boat crossing to Hat Xai Khun cost K6000 per boat. From
there, buses go to Champasak / Pakse or Ban Nakasong (for Don Det)
There are also boats at around 8am to Don Khon / Don Det for K80000 per boat
(less than 8 people) or K10000 per people (if more than 8). There is usually
more than 8 people as this area is becoming touristy. In Muang Khong, ask at
Pon's Restaurant. This trip is also possible from Muang Saen.
Bus Schedules : From Hat
Xai Khun, opp. Don Khong
To Price Road Duration Time Nb Freq.
Champasak / Pakse K10000 good 2.5 6:30,7 a few na
Ban Nakasong K4000 good 30mn ? a few na
Note : To Champasak & Pakse, Japanese bus. Also at around 8,9,10 & 11
at No13 road (bus from south) / To Ban Nakasong, also at around 9:30,11,12:30,13:30
& 15:30 at No13 road (bus from Pakse)
What to buy
N/A
Fun Fun Fun
N/A
Transport
around town
By far the best way to get around on Don Khong is by bike. The standard price
in a lot of places (incl. most of GH) is K10000 per day or K5000 for half a
day. Unfortunately, the bikes are rather unsuitable for this big island...
Bus timetables
N/A
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
In Brief
A dusty but cool town,
rarely visited by travellers. However the atmosphere is great here if you take
the time to hang around - most people's impression of a nothing-kind-place comes
from the fact that they only stop here for lunch or snacks on the way to or
from Savannakhet.
Hotels
and guesthouses
Places here
are more expensive than the norm so invariably you will be a bit miffed with
your accommodation. Don't let that put you off though...
Chaleunxai, Kouvolavong Road. Some rooms have tv, fridge, phone and HW shower, whilst more basic rooms are also available.
Khammuan, Setthathirat Road. Most popular hotel in town, and when you watch the sunset from the balcony adjoining every room, you'll know why.
Phudoi, near KM 2 market. You may wish to stay here if you've arrived late and are leaving early. Twelve aircon rooms and a disco.
Souksomboun, Setthathirat Road. The old French-era police station, and a more modern building round the back. Kitsch rooms and brothel service provided.
Tha Khaek May, Vientiane Road. The only real cheapie in town, choice of fan or air con, a bit grotty but no choice if you want it cheap...
Food and
drink
The selection is alas
pretty limited.
Kulap Daeng is the only indoor restaurant in town, doing Lao, Thai and Chinese food.
Phawilai, on the southwest corner of the town square, does noodles with tasty grilled chicken.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
There is a phone office within the Post Office.
Banks/Moneychangers
BCEL on Kouvolavong Road.
What to see
Tha Khaek is a good place just to hang around in, as long as you don't get bored
too easily. But if you want specific things to do there are several attractions
in the vicinity.
Wat Pha That Sikhotabong is one of Laos' holiest pilgrimmage spots. There is
a nice stupa and some old remains, all in a wonderful Mekongside setting some
6km south of town.
The Mahaxai caves are worth a trip to even if you don't like caving, since they're
set in the most stunning scenery. The best cave is Tham Sa Pha In.
What to buy
The Lonely Planet lists Nang Beng and here daughters, weavers who have a weaving
workshop under their house on Thanon Unkham. They weave sarongs and wraps to
order.
Fun Fun Fun
There are quite a few nightclubs in town and they can be great fun to visit.
They are packed with young Lao at the weekends and on holidays.
Transport around town
Tuks tuks as per normal.
Bus timetables
N/A
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
None except perhaps don't go caving on your own.
Medical Services
None - head for Savannakhet or Vientiane.
In Brief
A fairly drab transit
town, Udomxai nonetheless makes a good rest stop between Luang Prabang and Muang
Sing.
Hotels and
guesthouses
Linda GH, (B150 or 200 w.
cold or hot shower) okay doubles, small singles.
Kongchai GH, (sign says Konchadenneua GH), 5mn from bus station, turn left after
the other guesthouses and the petrol station. Good, clean rooms a bargain at
B60, shared HW bath, free drinking water.
Dong Saghuane, near the petrol station (east of the river). Simple rooms and
a downstairs restaurant.
Phet Muang Nuan, close to the town's Kaysone Monument. Rooms would be okay if they were clean, which they aren't.
Phuxay, half a km down the lane next to the petrol station. Horrid rooms in a horrid place, avoid it if at all possible.
Seuannalat, with everything from dorms to doubles with ensuites and HW. And still cheap.
Si Wan Kham, near the Phuxay. A nice GH with a friendly family running it.
Food
and drink
No name restaurant,
opposite the Dong Saghuane GH and next to a motorbike repair shop. Great Chinese
food and some okay falang dishes, including great fruit shakes.
Swallow restaurant, east of the market, has good rice and noodle dishes.
Thanoosin Restaurant has a good selection of Chinese food.
Mixay restaurant 500m north of the Sing Thong Hotel has top quality versions of all the Lao staples.
Email/Internet
N/A
Telephone
Bring your mobile if you want. It'll be useful for telling the time if you lose
your watch.
Banks/Moneychangers
Lane Xang Bank is just north of the immigration office, but unfortunately this
branch can't change traveller's cheques.
What to see
Walk on down to the herbal sauna/massage place next to the Swallow restaurant.
Bring a sarong and indulge yourself in the (separate sex) saunas, and get a
herbal massage. Ace.
What to buy
Not much except Chinese goods.
Fun Fun Fun
Karaoke….ahem.
Transport around town
There are a few tuk tuks with comedy drivers.
Bus timetable
Destination
Cost Road surface Duration (hours) Departs at Freq.
Luang Nam Tha B75 bad 5 8,14 na
Boten B65 bad 4 8,11 na
Phongsali B170 bad 7 8 na
Muang Khua B65 bad 5 8,14 na
Nong Khiaw B75 ok 5 8,14 na
Pak Mong B50 good 3 8,10,13 na
Luang Prabang B85 good 5 8,11,14 na
Pakbeng B100 bad 8 to 10 8 na
Luang Nam Tha - B75
- dep 8:00, 14:00 - 5 hours
Boten - B65 - dep 8:00, 11:00 - 4 hours
Phongsali - B170 - dep 8:00 - 7 hours
Muang Khua - B65 - dep 8:00, 14:00 - 5 hours
Nong Khiaw- B75 - dep 8:00, 14:00 - 5 hours
Pak Mong - B50- dep 8:00, 14:00 - 5 hours
Luang Prabang - B85- dep 8:00, 14:00 - 5 hours
Pakbeng - B100- dep 8:00, 14:00 - 5 hours
Notes : To Nong Khiaw if
there are sufficient passengers, otherwise go to Pak Mong. From Pak Mong, connections
run to Nong Khiaw (B30, 1.5 hrs). Buses to Luang Prabang are via Pak Mong. Buses
to Pakbeng are via Muang Houn (B65, 4 hrs).
Warnings
Watch out for all the karaoke.
Medical Services
None to speak of.
In Brief
Vang Vieng is a small
village set in gawp-worthy natural beauty, a surreal landscape of rounded hills
and jagged limestone karst. It has become a major destination for travellers
and can be very busy. Outdoor activities and caving are the main attractions
and are well worth doing. Vang Vieng is known to locals as Ban Falang ('foreigner
village'), so it won't come as a surprise to learn that almost every building
in town is either a guesthouse, restaurant or internet café.
Hotels and
guesthouses
As a rule, GH's out
of town towards the river tend to be nicer. Vang Vieng is only really two streets
big, hence GH's are not listed by area here.
Prices have not been given for most GH's as they are fairly standard, although tend to fluctuate wildly between low and high season, when Vang Vieng is respectively deserted and then jam packed. In the low season rooms are available for K10,000 upwards (US$1.25), in the high season (Dec - March) this is normally doubled.
Phoukham, in the middle of town. Private baths, some rooms upstairs have great views of the spectacular countryside.
Vang Vieng (219 388), main road, near Wat Kang. Good dbles, some without windows.
Nana, down a small lane near the airstrip. Clean dbls with private bath and HW, large communal terrace. Very friendly.
Nam Song Hotel (213 566), at the ferry landing. Great location, caving equip to rent, excellent rooms but slightly more expensive than most.
Chantala, near Wat Kang. Cheap 4-bed room and doubles, a bit dingy but….well, cheap.
Phoubane, near the market on the river road. A notch up from most, nice garden, some rooms with private bath.
Sivixay, near Wat Kang. Covering a range of rooms from very basic to private HW baths, the Sivixay has it all.
Vang Vieng Resort, 10 minutes
south of the market by the river. Musty bungalows go for up to $20, and are
really not worth it.
Restaurant is excellent though, as is the location.
Vieng Savanh, middle of town. Standard basic rooms, a bit overpriced compared to some of the others.
Siripanga, near market. Basic, grubby, atmospheric, shit, whichever way you want to look at it.
Dok Khoun 1, near market. Clean rooms, views from second floor balcony.
Dok Khoun 2, down a small lane near the airstrip. Large GH with range of choice from dive to penthouse, or a Lao approximation thereof.
Food and
drink
Phonesavanh, opposite
the Dok Khoun 1 GH, has a standard traveller's menu serving a Khao-San standard
of food and all the predictable shite. Go on, break the mould, eat somewhere
else.
Viengkeo is better, found on the way to the immigration office.
The no-name shop next to the Siripanga GH (near market) serves excellent noodle soup with pate and chicken - check it out!
Wathana Nam Xong, next to the Nam Song Hotel. After a hard day's tubing you may wish to retire here for a sunset beer - the best sunset in town. If only cigars were sold too.
Kampanh restaurant is another tasty noodle place on the main drag. What do you mean you're sick of noodles?
Email/Internet
The PlaNet Online internet café is situated near the market, and offers
the best rates and ambience (and the only spiral staircase) in town. It is open
from 8.30 am until 11.00pm at night.
Telephone
You can make international calls from the telecom office which is open Mon-Fri,
8-noon and 1pm to 5pm.
Banks/Moneychangers
The bank is near the
immigration office and is open Mon to Sat 8:30 to 16.00. The exchange rate is
lower for TC and a commission of 1$ per cheque is charged. You may be able to
get a better deal elsewhere, so shop around.
What to see
Spelunking (or caving) is popular in VV, with pleny of impressive caves around
- from 2 to 16km away. Tham Jang is the most well known, although you may wish
to avoid the lighting and Buddha show and simply take a swim in the cool spring
which exits the cave. Very relaxing although it can get crowded here on public
holidays or weekends. You can find the cave close to the Vang Vieng resort,
and they will cheekily charge you 500 kip for the privilege of crossing their
bridge - if there's not too much water though you could cross on foot. For a
great view of the area, climb up to Tham Pha Puak, another cave.
Tubing is VV's other big draw - and no, that is not a veiled reference to smoking
opium. There are literally hundreds of the old inner tubes available for rent
in town (around K2000) and tuk tuks should cost K3.000 to the start but there
are actually two departing area and drivers would rather take you to the nearest
one (5mn out of the village). Insist to go to the second one, at Phoudindeng
village, for the 3-4 hours "ride". It would be a good idea to start
early as there are two caves to visit along the way and the sun disappear as
soon as 4pm behind some peaks. The river is really tame so the pace is real
slow. If you fear to get bored, go with friends!
Walking is another popular activity, with many guesthouses suggesting routes.
Be sure to take some water with you.
What to buy
Apart from the usual souvenirs you might wish to consider buying one
of the hand drawn maps that are available for a dollar. Worth getting despite
the small size of the town.
Fun Fun Fun
If you're not exhausted after a hard day of outdoor activities you might wish
to consider any one of an extensive range of night time activities including
drinking, drinking or drinking. You may also be offered a trip to an opium den,
but be warned - opium is a serious problem in Laos, not a tourist attraction.
Also, your chance of the whole thing being a set up, ending with you paying
off the police to get out of trouble, is very real.
Transport around town
If you can't walk around VV you are pretty lazy. Other than the immediate
village though, Tuk-tuks will take you to the river for tubing, and bicycles
are available for reaching the caves or exploring the countryside.
Bus
timetables
To Price Road Duration (hours)
Time No Freq.
Vientiane K5000 good 3 5:30,6,6:20,13,14:30 5 na
Luang Prabang K30000 good 6 9 1 na
Warnings
There have been reports of rape and attempted rape of lone women after dark
in the areas outside the village, so exercise caution.
Also, several travellers have reportedly been killed whilst tubing. The accidents
seem to occur when the river is fullest (during and immediately after the rainy
season) and are allegedly caused by swerving off the main river and into a 'side
lane' which culminates in rapids/and or a waterfall. Ask advice before you get
your tube.
Medical Services
Get back to Vientiane or Thailand as necessary or use your medical kit!
In Brief
A rather spooky town,
Vieng Sai was at one time going to be Laos' post-revolutionary capital, but
that's the kind of thing you start thinking when you've been living in a cave
for years. Luckily Kaysone et al saw sense and took over Vientiane as their
own. As a result VS is pretty much a ghost town. But then you come here for
the caves, not for the town...
Hotels and
guesthouses
Swampside, can be
found unsurprisingly next to a swamp. It has simple rooms and shared facilities.
Vieng Xai is on the southwestern edge of town. It's a bit spooky but otherwise not bad - although basic. The staff can arrange food if you order in advance.
Food and
drink
There's very little
food in town, and other than a couple of foe shops and the restaurant at the
Vieng Xai.
Email/Internet
Funnily enough…
Telephone
Nil points
Banks/Moneychangers
Erm…
What to see
The caves! Of the more than 100 caves, only 5 are at present open to the public.
There aren't any English speaking guides at present, or much in the way of signage,
but the caves speak for themselves.
What to buy
Nothing, but there is something quite nice about coming to a significant site,
worthy of significant tourist numbers, and not finding anything for sale!
Fun
Fun Fun
Reading about the caves in your guidebook is about the sum of it.
Transport around town
Walking or trying to hitch with anyone with a vehicle.
Bus timetables
Infrequent buses go to Sam Neua
Plane timetables
N/A
Warnings
N/A
Medical Services
One of the caves used to be a hospital, but alas, those days are gone.
In brief
Some visitors to Laos
skip rapidly through Vientiane, a great shame because it is an evocative, atmospheric
place if you know where to look. Those who make the effort are rewarded with
a look at the most rural, laid-back capital in Asia if not the whole world.
Only metres from the central Nam Phou fountain, chickens scratch, butterflies
whirl around the flowers and old men prepare complex concoctions of leaves,
paste and tobacco to chew on. French colonial buildings crumble aesthetically,
whilst lovely wooden Lao structures bake in the sun. The wind stirs the leaves
on vast trees by the boulevards.
One of the best things you can do in town is wander around in what was the old French quarter. The number of remaining colonial buildings is not tremendous (not that many were built in the first place), but this area contains plenty of other varied and relatively intact architecture. It also has cute little streets, some of the loveliest wats, and a taste of what the whole of Vientiane was like before they started modernising the roads! See this area now before they pave all the tracks - parts of this area feel like a rural village.
HOTELS AND
GUESTHOUSES
Budget and dormitory
accommodation
Sabaidy GH (213929, mixay@laotel.com), 203 Setthathirat Rd, just west of PlaNet internet café. Dorm $2 or K16.000. Get there early for the 3 or 4 bed dorms. When these are full, you will find yourself in the huge 12 bed dorms (split into two levels). Rooms clean and very good value, HW in shared baths and relaxing lobby with satellite TV & movies. Staff great fun, plenty of parties…
MIC GH (belongs to the Ministry of Information and Culture), 67 Manthatulat Rd (off Setthathirat Rd near Sabaidy GH). Trpl w. cold shower $6 (K45.000) but it should be easy to get what is in effect a dorm bed for around (K15.000). No HW showers. If you arrive early enough in the day the rooms are adequate.
Phantavong GH, just north of the MIC GH. Dorm (3 beds) downstairs $2 (K15.000), Dorm (4 beds) upstairs K20.000, double room K38.000, w. cold shower K45.000. Shared baths no HW. The rooms are huge but basic, knackered and sometimes dirty. Some also have no windows. Come here to shoot up or listen to Radiohead.
For slightly more comfort...
In the area to the west of the museum, 5 minutes walk from the dorm places:
Vannasinh GH (218707), 51 Phnom Penh Rd. Small Sgl w. or without cold shower $8, Dbl w. HW shower $10. Excellent rooms and very clean.
Haysoke GH (218844), Heng Boun Road, two streets south of the above. Clean rooms w. satellite TV, phone & fridge $13, same plus HW shower $15, Trpl $25. Pleasant & well equipped but are you sure you're rich enough?
Thawee GH (217903), 64 Ban Anu, two streets north of the above, Sgl (but the bed is big enough for two) w. satellite TV $7 (or K53,500), Dbl w. AC, TV & HW shower $14. Little extras (water, soap,etc) are nice if you're feeling hard done by. Bizarrely, women's bikes are K9000 whilst men's are K12000. Arguably the best deal in town for very nice, clean & cosy rooms with great beds.
Syri 1 GH (212682, dronk@laonet.net, Saigon Road) - continue north to find this one. Room without shower $8 (single) or $10(dbl), Sgl w. HW shower $10, Dbl w. HW shower $10(1 person) or $12 (2 or 3 people), quad w. AC, satellite TV & fridge $20. Large wooden rooms with bags of charm in a superb old house complete with reading rooms, kitchen, etc.
Santisouk GH (215303), 77/79 Nokeo Khumman Rd. Again, huge wood rooms w. AC $8, w. HW bathtub $10. Rather musty but lots of charm. Also the cheapest AC in town, even if the units are clapped out Russian shitheaps. Some of the staff are not so friendly.
Praseuth GH (2179320, corner
of Nokeo Khumman Rd & Samsenthai Rd) OK rooms for $7, w. AC $8, all with
HW. Go there for the cheap AC but it is not as nice as the above & fairly
basic.
Hua Guo GH (216612), 359 Samsenthai Rd. Sgl w. AC & satellite TV $7, Dbl w. above $10, w. HW shower $12, Trpl $12 or $15. The Chinese management claim to have the best rates in town. This is true for Sgl with AC but they certainly do not have the best looking or cleanest rooms...
Near the morning market and bus station
Boulichanh GH (223475), Lane Xang Avenue. Room w. cold shower $6, w. HW shower $8, w. outside window $10, w. balcony $12. The rooms are okay but if you can bring yourself to walk 500 metres (or get a tuk tuk) there is much better to be had, in nicer locations.
Mekong riverfront area, south of Setthathirath Road
Lao Sakomh GH (216571), Francois Nginn Rd. Sgl w. cold shower $6, Dbl without shower $8, Dbl w. HW or cold water but no window $10. Little extras (water, soap,etc) try to make up for very average but clean place.
Saysouly GH (223757, saysouly@hotmail.com), 23 Manthatulat Rd. Sgl $8, Huge dbl w. AC & HW bathtub $10, w. satellite TV $12. More little extras (water, soap, etc). Cheapest good clean dbl (with AC & HW) in town. Bathtubs are an unspeakably good bonus if you've been on the road for a while.
Khamvongsa GH (216725), Khun Bulom Rd (street to the west of Wat Inpeng). Sgl or Dbl in the wooden house out the back $4 or $5, Dbl in front house $6. Cheapest Sgl in town and okay rooms, although the smaller ones can get very hot.
FOOD AND DRINK
Vientiane's
culinary scene is first rate, whether you are looking for authentic Lao food
or the best in international cuisine. The riverfront area is a great spot for
spicy papaya salad, roast chicken and sticky rice, while the town centre's numerous
little foreign restaurants offer some fabulous French, Italian, German, Swiss,
Indian, Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and Korean food.
Chez Hawaii, Heng Boun Road. Absolutely delicious French and Vietnamese cuisine at reasonable prices. The Vietnamese/Lao couple who run it speak French and English and are very charming. Great pate and cold meats, good wine and nice atmosphere.
Khop Chai Deu, Setthathirat Road by Namphou Fountain. Cheap food and cheaper beer against the backdrop of an aesthetically crumbling French mansion. The most consistently lively place in town, and with good reason - tasty grub and great value (a large steak with fries, salad, veg and garlic bread is K20,000 or $2.5. This place was bombed in March 2000, so hold onto your seat. Live music on Friday nights, whores on every night.
Namphou Garden - bar in the fountain circle itself. Pricey beer but great location and a consummate Vientiane experience. A cross between sitting by a fountain in a shopping centre and sitting in a small French town, only much more satisfying than either. Open from late afternoon until around 10.30pm.
Sala Khounta (more commonly known as the 'sunset bar' can be found on the riverfront (surprise) around 1.5km northwest of the end of Fa Ngum road. Beers are reasonable, food is tasty (try the fried birds) and the view immense. Good at any time, even better when pissed.
Samlo Pub, Setthathirat road. Dodgy 'English' pub with dodgy landlord, dodgy food, dodgy 'hostesses' of both sexes and a darts board and snooker table. Good for a laugh, great for a punch-up.
La Terrasse, Nokeo Khumman. French bistro with wide menu including Mexican, Lao, Italian as well as French. Good value and good food. The cheapest 'good' restaurant in town.
Noodle shops everywhere around town are good for lunch, a huge bowl of steaming foe (noodle soup) with greens (and meat if you want) for less than $1.
PVO, Samsenthai Road. Enormously popular Vietnamese food joint offering dirt cheap baguettes with a variety of fillings or delicious cold noodle salad. The absolute dog's bollocks. Which aren't served. Which is nice.
For a blowout there are plenty of swanky restaurants such as Le Silapa (French), Lo Stivale (Italian) or L'Opera (Italian). Prices are very reasonable compared to anywhere else in the world - so what's your credit card for?
Email/Internet
The cheapest
rates in Laos are K150 a minute at PlaNet Online (planet@laopdr.com
), on Setthathirat Road near the dormitory places. The rates goes down to K100
if you become a member of the PlaNet club. Unbelievably, there is free coffee
& tea, CNN on an enormous television, comfortable sofas and newspapers and
magazines. Open daily 8:30 to 23.00.
Banks/Moneychangers
In Vientiane, there should
be no commission on TC converted into Kip (1.5% if converted to US$), but be
prepared to come out with a thick bag of notes if there aren't enough 5,000
kip notes, or if you change more than $50. Some banks can also cash credit cards
for a commission of 3.5% for US$ or 2.5% for kip. There are plenty of banks
to choose from but the best rate is usually to be found at the BCEL, (Banque
pour le commerce exterieur Lao), on Pangkham Road near the riverfront road.
WHAT TO SEE
TEMPLES AND STUPAS
Temples are located in each of the many villages which make up Vientiane. They are often useful as landmarks as outside of the city centre there are few street signs. Temples are active places of worship and the residence of the monks. Visitors are welcome, but it is best to avoid doing this at 11.00-12.00 when the monks eat their one meal of the day from the alms collected in the morning.
That Luang - pronounced Tat Loo-ung, which means Great Sacred Stupa - stands 45 metres tall and is believed to contain a relic of Lord Buddha. The original structure was built by King Setthathilath in 1566, and the present structure was restored in 1953. The gold painted centre-piece of this stupa echoes the curve of an elongated lotus bud. The shrine is the focus for important Buddhist festivals in Vientiane, principally the That Luang festival held around the full moon in November each year. The That is the most important national symbol in Laos and appears on the logo of every state institution and on the cover of every school kid's exercise book in the country.
Wat Sisaket is Vientiane's oldest, and arguably most beautiful temple. It was built in 1818 and was the only temple to survive sacking by the Siamese when they invaded in 1828. However, while it survived the sacking it may not survive the ravages of time unless someone carries out some restoration work - and soon. In the meantime, the gently sagging roofline, wonky pillars and fading murals make for a wonderfully atmospheric wat. The temple complex houses a cloister lined with 6,840 Buddha images.
Wat Simuang enshrines the foundation pillar of Vientiane, and is home to the city's guardian spirit. If you get up early enough you can see locals placing offerings around the base of the pillar. Local folklore surrounding the temple's construction tells of a pregnant girl who, for the good of the city, sacrificed herself to the spirit by jumping into the hole before the foundation pillar was lowered.
Wat Ong Teu - the translation of which - 'Temple of the Heavy Buddha' - sounds somewhat like a hippy nightclub, is in fact the residence of the Deputy Patriarch who presides over Vientiane's Buddhist Institute, where monks from all over the country come to study. The temple houses a 16th century bronze Buddha image weighing 10 tonnes. He ain't heavy, he's my Buddha...
Wat Phra Keo was previously the temple of the Lao monarchy and housed the Emerald Buddha which was lost to the Siamese when they sacked the city in 1828. Since the 1970's, the temple has not been used for worship but rather has been converted into a museum which contains some of the finest examples of Buddhist sculpture and artifacts in the country. Well worth a visit.
Tat Dam, according to legend, is located over a cave, and is home to a seven-headed dragon which protected the people of Vientiane during the Siamese invasion in 1828. Didn't save the Emerald Buddha though, did it? Anyhow, today Tat Dam is easily the coolest roundabout in the city and is surrounded by some fabulous old French colonial mansions.
MUSEUMS, MONUMENTS AND PARKS
The Revolutionary Museum is located in an impressive old French colonial building which used to house the resident superieur during the colonial era. The museum has recently been upgraded from pure propaganda to a new mixture of half propaganda and half general stuff on Laos (ie maps, archaeological finds and the like). Upstairs, photographs and paintings depict the revolutionary struggle which culminated in the creation of the Lao PDR in 1975. If you've recently been to Cuba or some other fervently communist state, you might be bored, but otherwise it is well worth visiting to see photographs which you won't see anywhere else.
The Revolutionary Monument (or Monument to the unknown soldier) is a modest white stupa topped with a red star, located in front of the National Assembly building at the That Luang parade ground. It was built in memory of those who died in the revolutionary struggles from 1945-75. You might think that this kind of thing was only built in the past, but another has just been built somewhere in the south of the country.........
The Victory Monument (confusingly also known as Patuxai, Anousawali, the old monument, the vertical runway or the Arc de Triomphe) was built in 1962 as a memorial to those who died in wars before the revolution. It is located at one of the hubs of the city, and the views from the top are great. This is one of the few places you get to see just how green and low-rise Vientiane is. Amazing for any city, let alone a capital.
The National Ethnic Culture Park sits on the bank of the Mekong River 20 kilometres south of the city, on the road towards the bridge. Replicas of traditional ethnic dwellings have been constructed in the tree-shaded park. If you enjoy kitsch, you'll love this place...Other attractions at the site include a small zoo, an outdoor restaurant, souvenir shops, and places for picnics with views of the Friendship Bridge.
Wat Xieng Khouan is also known as the Buddha Park. Situated by the Mekong river about 5 kilometres past the bridge, Wat Xieng Khouan, despite its name, is not a temple but a sculpture park. Created in 1958, the park captivates visitors with its unusual Buddhist and Hindu imagery. Wat Xieng Khouan offers food and drink stalls, and is a popular spot for picnics. The same guy who made this also made one in Nong Khai, across the river, but this one is better because it doesn't look like a garden centre and isn't rammed with tourists.
Take a bus from the bus station behind the Morning market to Tha Deua (K500, 40mn) and make sure you tell the driver where you want to go. Alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk for the return journey (about $5).
What to buy
Vientiane is a haven
for shoppers and a visit to its markets is a highlight of a trip to the city.
Talat Sao, the Morning Market (which is actually open until it gets dark) deserves
special mention for its quality handicrafts, including textiles from many provinces,
silverware and genuine antiques, as well as a wide range of household appliances
and clothing. Food markets are located in each quarter of the city.
Exquisite silk and cotton textiles, silverware, detailed wood carvings, pottery and traditional musical instruments are among the treasure trove of handicrafts for which Laos is becoming internationally renowned.
Fun fun fun
There is plenty of
fun going in Vientiane, you just have to look a little bit harder for it than
in most capital cities! On the face of it you are limited to eating out, drinking
by the river or going to a nightclub, but with a little effort consulting the
Vientiane Times or posters up around town you can usually expand your choice
from a range of possibilities.
These include:
The circus, which has its own permanent site ('the Russian circus') near Thong Khan Kham market. The knife-jugglers might on occasion catch the wrong end (causing the audience to wince) but some of the tricks remain impressive, and you can see the fruit of countless year's training in Eastern Europe.
Events at the Lao National Cultural Centre, where displays of dance, music, film and art are put on by embassies, touring organisations and so on.
Bowling, either at km4 on ThaDeua Road (the way to the bridge) or next to the National Stadium in the city centre. The latter is more expensive.
Films are shown on Sunday nights at the Australia Club at 7.00pm km4 on ThaDeua Road (the way to the bridge). The films are mainly copied VCD's which provide a decent chance to practice your Chinese subtitle-reading skills.
Frisbee is played on Don
Chan Island, the large sandbar which appears in the mekong during the dry season,
on Sundays from 5pm. At other times of the year the frisbee crew can be harder
to track down but usually use a field in Ban Phonpapao, next to the Dance School.
Travel Arrangements
Transport
around town
Bike hire
Bikes are available for around K10,000/day from various guesthouses, hotels and shops around town - you won't have to look very hard for one. This is an excellent way to get around as Vientiane is so small.
Tuk-tuks
There are plenty around until about 9 or 10pm, after which the prices tend to get a bit steep but as most guesthouses are right in the middle of town this is not a problem.
A small number of fabulous old bicycle samlors, peddled by aging men, are also available for hire. Ride in them while you can..........if you have trouble finding one, look outside the post office next to the Morning Market.
Bus timetables
To Price Road Duration
(hrs) Time No. Freq.
Tha Khaek K12000 good 6 4,5,6 3 na
Savannakhet K20000 good 8 7:30,10 2 na
Pakse K26000 Bad after Savanakhet 15 8,11,14:30 3 na
Vang Vieng K5000 good 4 7,10:30,13:30 3 na
Luang Prabang K40000 good 10 6,7,8,9:30,11,13:30,17 7 na
All the above are state or state-associated buses. A private Company (Sensabay) runs daily buses to Savannakhet departing from the evening market area (office next to the Vientiane Theatre) at 7am for K20.000. It advertises an 8 hour journey time.
Plane timetables
The airport is only
10 minutes and 5000kip away from the town centre in a tuk-tuk
Departure tax is $10 for international flights and $5 for domestic.
Bangkok (daily, $80)
Chiangmai (Thurs & Sun, $70)
Hanoi (daily except Mon, $108)
Saigon (Fri, $140)
Phnom Penh (Mon & Fri, $125)
Kunming (Sun, $100)
Boat timetables
The ferry pier is
about 8km out of the centre in Ban Kao Liaw. Slow boats and speed boats normally
leave in the morning for Luang Prabang. Both are slower (2 days or 10 hours)
& more expensive (K105.000 or K189.000) than the bus so they are only really
taken by those who enjoy river travel. It is also possible to travel by boat
to Savannakhet once a week (contact the Laksi Harbour Tel : 313 083).
Obtaining visas
Vietnam $55
for 1 month visa, 3 working days, 2 photos / Embassy on That Luang Rd, tel :
413400 / Both Sabaidy GH & Phantavong GH (generously ?) take care of this
business for the same price in 4 working days.
China $35 for 1 month visa, 3 working days, 1 photo / Embassy on Vatnak Rd, tel : 315100
Australia Nehru Street,
Vat Phonsay area. Tel: 41-3610, 41-3805, 41-3602.
Bulgaria Sisangvone Area Tel: 41-110
Cambodia Saphathong Nua Area Tel: 31-4952, Fax: 31-2584.
China Vat Nak Street, Sisattanak Area Tel: 31-5103, 31-5100, 31-5101.
Cuba Saphathong Nua Area Tel: 31-4902
France Setthathirath Road Tel: 21-5258, 21-5259, Fax: 21-5255.
Germany 26 Sokpaluang Road Tel: 31-2111, 31-2110
India That Luang Road, Vat Phonsay Area Tel: 41-3802.
Indonesia Phon Kheng Road Tel: 41-3910, 41-3909, 41-3907, 41-3914
Japan Sisangvone Road Tel: 21-2623, 41-4400-2, 41-4406, Fax: 41-4403
Korea (PDR) Vat Nak Street, Sisattanak Tel: 31-5261, 31-5260
Malaysia That Luang Street, Vat Phonsay Area Tel: 41-4205
Myanmar Sokpaluang Street, Sisattanak Area Tel: 31-2439, 31-4910
Poland Thadeua Road, Km 3 Tel: 31-2219, 31-2085
Sweden Sokpaluang Street, Vat NakTel: 31-5018, 31-5000, 31-3772, Fax: 31-5003
Thailand Phonkheng Road Tel: 21-4582-3, 21-4585
U.S.A. That DamTel: 21-2580-2, 31-2609, Fax: 21-2584
Vietnam That Luang Road Tel: 41-3400, 41-3409, 41-3403
Warnings
The Australian
Embassy in Vientiane gives the following travel advice related to Vientiane.
(ADD LINK?)
Australian visitors to Laos should maintain a high level of personal security awareness at all times.
A number of security incidents,
including bombings, have taken place in Laos, mainly in Vientiane, since March
2000. These include bombs in public places including markets, hotels, the post
office and a restaurant. Bombs have also been found on buses and at the airport.
Australian citizens are therefore advised to exercise caution in areas where
large numbers of people congregate, particularly the Morning Market in Vientiane.
Australian citizens are advised not to travel late at night in Vientiane. People
travelling at night are subject to being searched, detained and possibly fined
by authorities if they cannot present suitable identification. Travellers should
comply with requests to stop at checkpoints and roadblocks.
Medical
services
Mahosot Hospital,
situated on the riverfront along Fa Ngum road. It is open 24 hours.
Tel: 21-4018, 21-4022, 21-4025
Australian Embassy Clinic,
Nehru Street, Ban Phonexay.
Tel: 41-3603, 41-3610, 41-2343.
Open Mon, Tu, Th, Fri; 08:30-12:00 and 14:00-17:00 and Wed; 8:30-12:00
Quirky facts
Backpacker's tips/tourist tips